AHA vs. BHA: The Gen-Z Guide to Skincare Acids

You’ve probably seen these acronyms all over TikTok and Insta, and trust me, they’re not just random letters. AHAs and BHAs are the secret sauce for that ✨flawless✨, “I just woke up like this” skin. But which one is your skincare soulmate? Let’s break it down.

When it comes to smooth and clear skin, exfoliation is one step that shouldn’t be left out of your beauty routine. Whether using exfoliating granulating scrubs, beauty tools such as cleansing brushes or facial sponges, or chemical exfoliants, it is important to get rid of dead skin cells to prevent dullness of skin and breakouts caused by blocked pores. Among such skin-smootheners are chemical exfoliants called AHA and BHA.

What are AHA and BHA and the difference between the two

The acronym AHA actually stands for Alpha-Hydroxy Acid and it works by gently dissolving the bonds of dead skin cells, sloughing these away to reveal fresh, revitalised skin underneath. Meanwhile, BHA stands for Beta-Hydroxy Acid, which penetrates deep into skin to unclog pores, keeping dullness as well as breakouts at bay. Used together (or formulated together in one product), this double action will help make skin appear smoother and brighter, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Can you use both?

YUP! You can be a multi-acid queen. Many products combine them for the best of both worlds. Just don’t overdo it—start slow and low (like, once or twice a week) to avoid irritation. And always, always, ALWAYS use SPF. Acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so protect that glow!

Is it okay to use AHA and BHA every day?

Although AHAs and BHAs are considered the gentle types of exfoliators, it is not recommended to use products containing AHA and BHA too often. The recommended regularity is every 2 to 3 days, with even less regularity for those with sensitive skin. 

As indicated by the name, AHAs and BHAs are acids, and, while gentle, it is not recommended for daily use as it can lead to over-exfoliating and wreak havoc on your skin. Skin will be stripped of its natural oils and, in turn, lead to more production of skin sebum to compensate for the loss of moisture and hydration. 

Can I leave AHA and BHA overnight on my face?

Generally, it is not recommended to leave products containing AHA and/or BHA overnight, as its trait is peeling, not nourishing. In fact, many AHA and BHA products are meant to be applied for only 5 to 10 minutes at most on your face, if not to be washed off immediately. Leaving AHA or BHA products on for too long could lead to skin irritation, redness and dryness, and could potentially be more harmful to sensitive skin.

This is why it is important to read the instructions on your product before using, and to use any AHA and BHA products according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. 

Are there any products that shouldn’t be used with AHA or BHA products?

Because AHA and BHA work by exfoliating skin, it is actually prudent not to layer products containing this element with certain other products that may contain Vitamin C, Retinol and Benzoyl Peroxide. As you can imagine, pairing the acidic AHA BHA products with Vitamin C, which is also acidic, could be way too harsh on your skin. 

Meanwhile, Retinol – while great for oily and acne-prone skin as well as for anti-aging care, can also cause excessive dryness and irritate your skin. Other than that, Benzoyl Peroxide has the same effect and should also be avoided when using AHA BHA products. 

Another point to take note of is to not use an AHA/BHA product with an exfoliating tool as it could prove to be too abrasive. Exfoliating products should be applied as gently as possible with much care, to ensure skin integrity and avoid irritation and redness. Ultimately, AHA and BHA are great for skin, especially for deep cleansing and for removing dead skin cells but products containing these ingredients should always be used with much care and caution. 

Top 5 AHA BHA products to try right now

1. Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicyclic Serum

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Get that “I woke up like this” glow with the Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Serum, which gently exfoliates to smooth texture and clear breakouts. It’s like a strawberry-scented filter IRL, giving you that fresh, dewy look while keeping your skin calm and hydrated.

2. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant

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Get that silky smooth texture with Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant, which uses glycolic acid to gently buff away dead skin cells and reveal a brighter complexion. This glow-up in a bottle also helps to soften the look of fine lines and even out your skin tone for a super-radiant finish.

3. Herbivore Botanicals Milky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating Serum

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The Herbivore Botanicals Milky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating Serum is a gentle yet effective way to get your glow on, using a powerful blend of AHAs and PHAs to smooth out skin texture. Plus, it’s infused with soothing oat and ceramides to keep your skin hydrated and calm, so you can exfoliate without the irritation.

4. Benefit Cosmetics The Porefessional Tight ‘N Toned Pore-Refining AHA+PHA Toning Foam

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Ditch the cotton pads and get ready for a glow-up with Benefit’s POREfessional Tight ‘N Toned, a unique foaming toner that makes your pores look smaller. Its combo of AHAs and PHAs gently exfoliates and smooths out skin texture, leaving you with a fresh, even-toned complexion.

5. Farmacy Honey Glow 17% Resurfacing Acid Serum

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Experience a major glow-up with Farmacy’s Honey Glow, a potent 17% resurfacing serum that combines a blend of AHAs and BHAs to smooth texture and brighten your skin. Infused with honey, it delivers a powerful exfoliation while still nourishing and hydrating your skin for that healthy, dewy look.