Youths Are Getting All Dolled Up In Chinese Beauty Brands

If you haven’t come across Judydoll or Flower Knows yet, you’ve likely missed out on exploring Douyin, China’s version of TikTok. Alternatively, it might mean you haven’t yet stepped into retailers like Watsons or Sephora, where these emerging Chinese beauty brands are steadily establishing their presence.

Then, this September, Florasis, a leading C-beauty brand founded in 2017 in Hangzhou, China, opened its first European store in collaboration with DFS at Samaritaine Paris Pont-Neuf, the landmark department store located in the heart of Paris. This milestone places the brand alongside global beauty giants and marks a significant step in its international expansion.

WHAT IS C-BEAUTY?

Similar to the well-established beauty sectors in Korea and Japan, C-beauty refers to cosmetics and skincare products originating from China. Traditionally, Chinese beauty products were seen as affordable alternatives or "dupes" for international offerings. However, recent trends are quickly changing this perception.

A 2023 report from market research giant Euromonitor reveals a striking shift, with C-beauty’s share of the retail value in the colour cosmetics market doubling from 14 per cent to 28 per cent between 2017 and 2022.

READ MORE: What Beauty Products Is Gen Z Buying?

THE RISE OF C-BEAUTY

The rapid rise of C-beauty is closely tied to social media, particularly Douyin, where influencers popularised distinct makeup trends. These include shimmery eyeshadows, high-pigment blushes, and dewy lips – looks that are often accentuated by whimsical details, defining the C-beauty aesthetic.

Viral trends such as "manhua lashes" (inspired by the bold, exaggerated lashes of Chinese comic characters) and "bunny tongue lipsticks" (lipsticks mimicking the soft pink shade of a rabbit’s tongue) have further fuelled C-beauty’s popularity.

As these Douyin-driven styles gained momentum, brands like Judydoll and Flower Knows quickly followed suit, attracting beauty enthusiasts with their intricate packaging and trend-forward products.

AFFORDABILITY MEETS CREATIVITY

C-beauty brands are celebrated not just for their viral presence but also for their affordability when compared to Western and Korean counterparts. While many cater to a budget-conscious demographic, premium brands like Flower Knows are priced similarly to high-end names found in Sephora, proving that C-beauty is not merely about affordability but about delivering bold, innovative products that reflect China’s growing beauty creativity.

In Singapore, Watsons stocks popular C-beauty brands such as Judydoll, Joocyee, Flower Knows, and Flortte, while the popular e-commerce site YesStyle carries Girlcult and Cheeryep, highlighting the growing global reach of C-beauty.

HARNESSING SOCIAL MEDIA & E-COMMERCE

Several factors have contributed to the explosive growth of C-beauty. An efficient supply chain allows brands to offer high-quality products at competitive prices, while platforms like Douyin enable them to engage with younger, tech-savvy consumers. 

READ MORE: 5 Beauty E-Commerce Sites Every Cult Beauty Junkie Needs To Bookmark

Furthermore, the rise of e-commerce platforms has expanded C-beauty’s reach both domestically and internationally. According to a recent report in Jing Daily, Douyin’s beauty segment continues to experience double-digit growth. In the first half of the year, Douyin’s beauty category generated 97.7 billion RMB (S$18.15 billion) in sales, a 28 per cent year-on-year increase. 

With this momentum, Douyin’s beauty gross merchandise volume is expected to surpass 200 billion RMB (S$37.15 billion) in 2024, potentially rivaling Taobao’s beauty segment. Domestic brands, including Kans and Proya, led Douyin's beauty sales, further demonstrating the rise of Chinese beauty on the global stage. 

To get a better sense of how Singapore’s youth are embracing C-beauty, we chatted with five beauty influencers to find out how they're incorporating these innovative, trend-driven products into their routines.

ROSIE, IN HER LATE 20S, PREFERS TO GO BY HER FIRST NAME ONLY

An advertising photographer and founder of Challe Creatives, Rosie focuses her social media content on East Asian makeup and tutorials. Before venturing into content creation, she showcased her fine art and self-portraits on her art account, @rosiechalle.

What are your C-beauty holy grails?

"I would say Cheeryep’s eyeshadow palette, particularly in #07. It has good pigmentation and offers various shades suitable for different occasions. It’s a very versatile palette, with different shades that can be used as eyeliner, highlighter, and blush."

How do you incorporate C-beauty into your usual makeup routine?

"My current makeup routine consists of both Chinese and Korean products. For C-beauty, I use Joocyee’s concealer pencil, alternate between Flower Knows’ Swan Ballet eyeshadow palette in #03 and Cheeryep’s eyeshadow palette in #07, Judydoll’s lip mud in #204, and Flower Knows’ lip gloss from their Midsummer Fairy series."

What first attracted you to C-beauty products?

"The pigmentation and quality of the products really stood out to me. I saw how Chinese beauty influencers achieved such flawless looks using C-beauty products, and that inspired me! Since my skin is sensitive, I always make sure to research the ingredients online before trying anything new."

What are some common misconceptions about C-beauty?

"The most common misconception is that all C-beauty products involve animal cruelty. Many people don’t know that China has recently updated its laws, and makeup produced there is no longer required to undergo animal testing. Popular brands like Flower Knows and Kaleidos are cruelty-free.

Another misconception is that C-beauty products are of inferior quality compared to K-beauty. Based on my personal experience testing many C-beauty products, I can confidently say this is not the case. I have sensitive skin, so I’m very careful about the ingredients I use.

READ MORE: The Unconventional K-Beauty Products And Ingredients To Get On Board With

After researching online, I’ve found that many of the ingredients in C-beauty products are very similar to those in well-known K-beauty brands. I also want to emphasise that I only use C-beauty products from established brands, as some lesser-known brands are notorious for imitating popular products. These imitations often contribute to the misconception that C-beauty products are of inferior quality."

How would you say C-beauty products differ from J-beauty or K-beauty products?

"From my experience, I find them quite similar. However, C-beauty eyeshadows and blush palettes tend to have softer pigmentation that’s more buildable compared to Western brands. Products across all three (C-, K-, and J-beauty) are generally designed to be subtle, but can be intensified with a few layers if needed."

Given the rise of beauty products from East Asia, how do you see the beauty industry changing?

"I’ve noticed that many East Asian beauty brands are striving to be as shade-inclusive as possible. Some have even cast models of various ethnicities to demonstrate that their products work well on deeper skin tones. Additionally, I’ve spotted more C-beauty brands in local drugstores, which is really exciting."

For beginners who know nothing about C-beauty, what are your recommendations for products and where to get them?

"For beginners, I would highly recommend well-established Chinese brands like Judydoll, Flower Knows, and Joocyee. These brands generally have excellent reviews. As mentioned earlier, some China-produced makeup products are imitations of well-known C-beauty brands, and they often receive less favourable reviews regarding quality and ingredients.

It’s also helpful to know your undertones (cool or warm) as most C-beauty products are categorised this way. As far as I know, online retailers like CbeautyMall, Yesstyle, and ChicDecent offer a broad range of authentic C-beauty products."

JACKIE LAU, 22

Currently a student at Singapore Polytechnic, Lau creates content centred around makeup products and experimental makeup looks. He realised his passion for content creation back in secondary school. However, due to concerns about the stigma surrounding male beauty influencers and the fear of being perceived as "cringe-y" by his peers, he only began his journey after completing National Service. Since then, he has fully embraced his passion and hasn’t looked back.

What are your C-beauty holy grails?

"As basic as it may sound, Flower Knows has to be my favourite brand. Its packaging is intricate and beautiful, and the quality is insane for its price. Girl Cult has quickly become a favourite of mine because it isn't afraid to release edgy, niche products. Joocyee offers great products that meet everyday needs, and its designs add a modern twist to basic items already on the market. Lastly, Judydoll is the go-to brand – affordable everyday essentials, and their products never disappoint."

How do you incorporate C-beauty into your usual makeup routine?

"I love creating a good C-beauty eye look. Over the years, I've tried many different eye makeup styles, but in the past year, I noticed that the Douyin style really enhances my features – especially my eyes – and suits me well!"

What first attracted you to C-beauty products?

"When I first got into C-beauty, I was also a bit hesitant because of the stigma surrounding products made in China. A lot of people avoid purchasing from Chinese e-commerce platforms like Taobao because of this stigma. However, it's undeniable that many C-beauty brands offer competitive pricing and, in reality, have unique and impressive formulas."

What are some common misconceptions about C-beauty?

"One common misconception is that many C-beauty products are unsafe because it's unclear what ingredients are in them. I agree that there are some questionable products out there, but most reputable Chinese brands produce original and high-quality products with amazing formulations."

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How would you say C-beauty products differ from, say, J-beauty or K-beauty products?

"I’d say C-beauty tends to focus on enhancing features with boldness and isn’t afraid to go strong. In contrast, K- and J-beauty lean more toward natural looks, usually concentrating on improving skin complexion and creating a more subtle effect."

Given the rise of beauty products from East Asia, how do you see the beauty industry changing?

"East Asian beauty standards have historically favoured lighter skin tones, so many products from the region were formulated with these ideals in mind. Recently, though, there has been a noticeable shift in these sentiments. For example, cushion foundations, a staple product for East Asian brands, traditionally offered only two or three shades.

Despite social media backlash, many brands have been hesitant to expand their shade ranges, citing budget constraints and a belief that broadening their options wouldn’t be profitable. However, Tirtir, a Korean beauty brand, has been highly responsive to consumer feedback. Within just a few weeks, they significantly expanded their shade range in response to online demands."

For beginners who are unfamiliar with C-beauty, what products and where would you recommend?

"Start by watching beauty creators who have similar features to yours. Experiment with different techniques to find what makeup styles suit you best. For purchasing C-beauty products, TaoBao, a Chinese e-commerce platform, is an excellent choice, as it hosts many official flagship stores of C-beauty brands. Additionally, some brands like Joocyee and Judydoll are now available at local drugstore chain Watsons, making it easier to access them in person."

GENEVIEVE SIA, 22

A communications undergraduate and beauty content creator, Sia (find her on Instagram and TikTok at @genevievesjy) keeps her audience updated on the latest East Asian beauty trends, makeup and skincare reviews, beauty hauls, lifestyle content, and travel vlogs, with occasional insights into K-pop. She began her journey as a content creator in TikTok’s early days. After a few of her reviews gained traction, she fully embraced content creation and has been pursuing her passion ever since.

What are your C-beauty holy grails?

"Right now, it's Flower Knows' Mermaid eyeshadow palette. It's an incredibly easy-to-use palette with brown shades that I use every day. It includes two contour shades, two glitter shades, and one highlighting shade, making it perfect for an everyday look. The pigmentation is fantastic, and it doesn’t fade throughout the day. Plus, the packaging is gorgeous! I even bring it along when I travel because of its convenience."

How do you incorporate C-beauty into your usual makeup routine?

"My makeup style draws heavy inspiration from Douyin trends. From eye looks to techniques for highlighting, contouring, and lips, I’ve learned everything from creators on Xiao Hong Shu (a Chinese social media and e-commerce platform).

Although I’m Singaporean, I feel that, being ethnically Chinese, these techniques complement my features well. My current routine blends Chinese, Korean, and Japanese products seamlessly.

For simple eyeshadow looks, I use the Mermaid eyeshadow palette from Flower Knows. I pair Judydoll's highlighter with Cezanne's (a Japanese brand) highlighter for brightening my inner corners. For my aegyosal – a Korean technique that highlights and contours the under-eye area – I use liner from Colorgram (a Korean brand) alongside Judydoll."

What first attracted you to C-beauty products?

"Being ethnically Chinese, I don’t carry any stigma against Chinese products, but what truly drew me to C-beauty was its novelty. I think C-beauty has always been innovative – whether it’s in their packaging or the unique products they launch.

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They consistently find ways to release items that are either so intriguing you feel compelled to buy them, an exciting twist on a popular product, or beautifully packaged creations. Examples include Judydoll's iron mascaras, Joocyee's crystal sticks, and Flower Knows' intricately decorative designs."

What are some common misconceptions about C-beauty, and what’s your opinion on them?

"A major misconception is that C-beauty products are cheap and ineffective. Due to lingering stigma around products made in China, some people assume that anything produced there is of low quality. I strongly disagree with this!

Many high-end C-beauty brands are expensive, but the quality justifies the price. From luxurious packaging to the product's texture, the experience feels premium. Even the more affordable C-beauty brands deliver impressive results. Personally, I've rarely encountered bad C-beauty products."

How would you say C-beauty products differ from J-beauty or K-beauty products?

"While there are some similarities, each has its unique style. C-beauty leans into bold, vibrant pops of colour. K-beauty tends to be beginner-friendly with harmonious colour palettes, and J-beauty emphasises a natural, cute aesthetic. These distinctive approaches are clearly reflected in their product designs and formulas."

Given the rise of beauty products from East Asia, how do you see the beauty industry changing?

"As Asian beauty brands aim to expand globally, I foresee them focusing on more inclusive and extensive shade ranges. However, for brands content with their presence in the Asian market, I expect they will continue prioritising 'universal' products, such as glitters or lipsticks, over diversifying their shade offerings.

A notable example is Flower Knows' recent Midsummer Fairytales summer collection. Their Asian release included products like colour correctors, while the global release swapped these out for liquid highlighters. Instead of extending shade options for their colour correctors, they replaced the product entirely for the global market.

While both launches were impressive, I wish they had embraced shade inclusivity rather than omitting a product for the global release. This would cater to a broader audience and reflect a genuine commitment to diversity."

For beginners who know nothing about C-Beauty, what are your recommendations for products and where to get them?

"I'd recommend starting with beginner-friendly brands like Judydoll. Their all-in-one palettes are perfect for creating cohesive looks and can be used for your entire face – all at an affordable price. For tutorials, Xiao Hong Shu is a treasure trove. The jie jies (older sisters) there are pros, sharing the best tips and exclusive previews of new launches since they have the most access.

Makeup is a journey; mastering techniques and discovering what complements your features takes time and lots of experimentation. For product availability, TaoBao is unmatched with its extensive selection. Plus, they recently introduced an English version of the app, making navigation and shopping significantly easier for international users."

DANIEL CHAN, 24

A full-time content creator, Chan is a bona fide makeup guru whose content spotlights Asian cosmetic products, tutorials, and reviews. His journey began serendipitously – after posting a TikTok video venting about a negative experience with a product, he was met with an outpouring of support and engagement. Motivated by this response, Chan started posting consistent reviews, carving out his niche as one of Singapore's pioneering TikTok beauty gurus.

What are your C-beauty holy grails?

"Contour products, hands down. C-beauty brands excel at creating cool-green-grey contour shades that perfectly suit fairer Asian skin tones like mine. Western brands just don’t have anything comparable. My current favourite is the Kaleidos 3-in-1 palette."

How do you incorporate C-beauty into your usual makeup routine?

"Half of my makeup routine features C-beauty products. Right now, I rely on the Girls Crush colour corrector, Flortte eyebrow pencil, and Timage blush palettes – they’ve become staples in my everyday look."

What first attracted you to C-beauty products?

"The price points are a major draw, especially considering that they often deliver comparable or even better performance than Western brands today."

What are some common misconceptions about C-beauty, and what’s your opinion on them?

"One common misconception is that C-beauty products underperform compared to Western brands and are merely dupes. I completely disagree! There are so many unique offerings that only C-beauty delivers, and they excel in those areas. Their innovative packaging, creative concepts, and formulas often surpass expectations."

How would you say C-beauty products differ from J-beauty or K-beauty products?

"C-beauty offers the most affordable price points, and often features better packaging that elevates the visual experience."

Given the rise of beauty products from East Asia, how do you see the beauty industry changing?

"With affordable Asian beauty brands offering quality products at much lower prices, I foresee Western brands struggling to maintain their dominance and justify their higher price points. The illusion of luxury in this sector is fading quickly.

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While many C-beauty brands are still relatively inaccessible to Singaporeans, a growing number are creating both online and offline channels to make their products available in Singapore."

For beginners who know nothing about C-beauty, what are your recommendations for products and where to get them?

"I get almost every C-beauty product from Taobao, directly from the brand’s store. It's a fun and exciting experience, so I say go wild and enjoy exploring."

QUEENIE, 22, PREFERS TO GO BY HER FIRST NAME ONLY

A backend administrative worker by day and content creator by night, Queenie's style blends goth and douyin aesthetics. Her content, chronicled on Instagram and TikTok (@queenmizuki_), focuses on goth fashion, beauty, and cosplay. Since her teen years, Queenie has known she wanted to be a content creator. After picking up makeup skills through her hobby as a cosplayer, she began posting tutorials and cosplay content on social media.

What are your C-beauty holy grails?

"I absolutely love the Black Swan eyeshadow palette from Flower Knows' Swan Ballet Series. The pigment is gorgeous, and I use it almost every day. I use greys and blacks in my makeup looks and love the colour red, so this palette is perfect for me.

The glitter is stunning, and the blendability is phenomenal. Not to mention the beautiful packaging. I 100 per cent recommend this palette – it's a must-have."

How do you incorporate C-beauty into your usual makeup routine?

"I incorporate elements of C-beauty through techniques like contouring styles, as they suit my features better. I own many products from C-beauty brands, like Girl Cult (alt friends, I highly recommend this brand), Judydoll's contouring palette, Xixi's eyeliner, and of course, Flower Knows."

What first attracted you to C-beauty products?

"The price! When I began my makeup journey in the 2010s, Western beauty brands were the cornerstone of makeup. However, everything was expensive for a 13-year-old me. Once I realised there were cheaper alternatives online, I tried them out and never looked back. That’s not to say Western brands aren’t worth the money – I still love them – but now I have a bigger preference for C-beauty and Asian brands."

What are some common misconceptions about C-beauty, and what’s your opinion on them?

"Many people think that C-beauty products are low-quality because of their price, or that they are detrimental to the skin due to 'harmful' chemicals. While these are valid concerns, they are based on assumptions stemming from the fact that these products come from China. In my opinion, this is blatant sinophobia. There are many wonderful C-beauty brands that are safe and work wonderfully."

How would you say C-beauty products differ from J-beauty or K-beauty products?

"C-beauty differs greatly from J-beauty since J-beauty focuses on natural finishes. Both J-beauty and K-beauty focus on achieving dewy skin and bright, round eyes. I dare say that C-beauty is the perfect blend of J-beauty, K-beauty, and Western styles."

Given the rise of beauty products from East Asia, how do you see the beauty industry changing?

"It's wonderful to see more interest in East Asian beauty products. I feel this is a step in the right direction for both sides! Western brands will begin to recognise the market in Asian countries and, hopefully, expand their shade ranges to cater to Asian undertones.

Meanwhile, Asian beauty brands can expand their shade ranges beyond just the paler tones, like how Tirtir (a Korean beauty brand) expanded their foundation shades to include darker skin tones after receiving feedback from customers in the West. It's a beautiful thing to witness, especially after growing up during the era when Western beauty dominated the makeup space."

For beginners who know nothing about C-Beauty, what are your recommendations?

"Never be afraid to try anything. Research what works best for your skin and needs, and see which products fit those criteria. Don't rush into buying Girl Cult’s dark palettes if you're not yet comfortable experimenting with colour.

Don’t be disheartened if you struggle with products at first. They all work differently and require some testing. For example, some blushes require a lighter hand, while others need more layers. Makeup is a process and a journey, and along the way, the most beautiful scenery is you."