FEMALE Party Cam May 2024: A Melting Pot Of Vogue, Butoh And Jatilan
Head-turning styles and sweaty intensity catch the eye of subculture documenter and artist Marisse Caine this month
Imagine performers butoh dancing to a live set by experimental musicians at an izakaya, or jumping around to a trance-inducing amalgam of gabber and shamanistic folk music.
READ MORE: Marisse Caine Captures The Soul Of Singapore’s Underground Music Scene
Think Dune meets Underworld energy meets millennial kopitiam meets Gen Z siam diu. It’s not just about a venue’s DIY take on 1980s/'90s futurism, or how it feels like a punk scene in a high school movie you haven’t seen before. When you break down the reference points of the diverse underground parties this month, we’re nostalgic for something that never existed.
Paradise found at Kelab Jannah, which took place on May 10
People different from society’s norms gather here, all with one thing in common: creating, with the limited resources we have, a retro-futuristic world we both remember and envision. We speak to some of them in this edition of FEMALE Party Cam.
Partygoers were in the zone as music producer/DJ Bianca Oblivion brought her lightning-quick blends of cumbia, pop, dancehall, and reggaeton edits from her renowned Warp Mode events in Los Angeles to Singapore on May 4.
From the awe-inspiring spins and dips on the platform to the sea of shirtless revellers on the dancefloor, it was a night of maximum fierceness at FomoHomo’s ball at Tuff Club on Robinson Road.
Who: Dineaish Rajendran, artist, model and performer
Define "beauty". "Beauty to me is being confident in how you present yourself. And most importantly, being as beautiful on the inside as you are on the outside."
What's the thought process behind your look? "Honestly, it depends on the event I'm going to and what I feel that day. It could also start with styling around one particular piece I want to wear."
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "I think nostalgia. Even new trends are more modernised versions of trends from the past. And just reminiscing upon iconic eras that should not be forgotten – I'm glad."
Homegrown music selectors Xaetherx, Durio, and YetPet (pictured) joined Bianca Oblivion to bring their infectious sound to FomoHomo's event.
Who: Melia Raine, DJ, model and events organiser
Define "beauty". "It’s having fun with life. It’s a feeling. It’s your favourite song. It’s journaling in your diary at 3am. It’s trying new things. It’s dancing in your room. It’s catching the first rays of light. It's being you."
What's the thought process behind your look? "I tune in to what kind of touch my body craves that day – either a lot of fabric hugging me or as little as possible. Then, I choose the colour I feel like wearing. My favourite combination is blue and orange, but I also love reds, pinks, and purples. I'm a fan of accessories, especially dangly earrings and handmade necklaces – anything flashy. I adore flowers and have many shirts and dresses with floral patterns. Although I'm a bit scared of piercings, I bought fake piercing stickers to experiment with my looks – I love tricking people with them."
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "I would say it’s a mix-and-match of everything. In 2024, the world moves faster than ever, especially with the internet exchanging ideas and cultures. People find it easier to express themselves through their outfits, looks, and outlook on life. The possibilities are endless, and I’m living for it."
Kelab Jannah took place at Ikigai on May 10 and was organised by A'alely (pictured), the co-founder of the art and music collective Strange Weather.
Kelab Jannah presented a fascinating collaboration between multi-disciplinary artist Ila and multi-instrumentalist noise musician Madam Data (pictured in background).
The experimental soundscapes at Kelab Jannah were complemented by evocative performances from butoh dancers (pictured), expressing the music physically.
Who: Bryan Kang, founder of independent botanical and landscape design consultancy, Pudica
Define "beauty"."I find beauty in unexpected places, like plants sprouting from walls or the iridescence of an oil spill. It's often in the things that are overlooked, prompting you to contemplate how they occur, or when you take a closer look at something."
What's the thought process behind your look? "I usually start by selecting a single clothing item I want to wear for the day and then consider the silhouette that complements it best. From there, I build the rest of the outfit around that piece. Additionally, I like to explore blending different gender expressions within my looks."
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "Fashion trends have always cycled through different eras, but the age of information has changed how the cycles repeat. Nowadays, people have access to vast amounts of information, allowing them to blend elements from various periods to create new styles. You might see someone wearing a combination of baby tees (popular in the 1990s), denim mini skirts (popular in the '80s), and knee-high boots (popular in the '70s), but they'll label it as Y2k fashion. You can't tell me you haven’t seen someone wear this exact combination in the past month (laughs)."
With its irreverent flair and left-field punk energy, the fifth party instalment by the arty and wacky Intervention crew on May 11 offered an intoxicating experience.
Just after their captivating performance at Esplanade's stunning Samsara cine-concert with a gamelan orchestra the night before, Indonesian duo Gabber Modus Operandi (pictured) brought riotous energy to the Intervention party.
The No Spoilers Bar at The Projector Cineleisure was pulsating with the high-energy set by Gabber Modus Operandi, blending Indonesia's dangdut koplo and jatilan with hardcore and gabber.
The outfits on display were as cheekily eclectic as the music blaring through the speakers.
Who: Ican Harem, one half of Gabber Modus Operandi
Define "beauty". "Finding a place in an imperfect position."
What's the thought process behind your look? "Celebrating myths within the culture I immerse myself in, reflecting the essence of my ecosystem, and serving as someone’s mood board without receiving credit."
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "I don't adhere to any specific era; I always enjoy challenging myself to present a timeless style, blending elements of the past with a futuristic twist that still retains its historical essence. While I don't feel connected to the current popularity of Adidas Sambas, I did wear fake Adidas Sambas when I was 15 years old, interpreting sportswear as attire for hunting or clubbing as a primitive ritual, influenced by the 'abang-abang' (elder male relative or friend) style."
Who: Qiqi Hui, co-owner of Malaysia-based vintage label, Vintage Lah
Define "beauty". "To me, there isn't a fixed definition of beauty. My perception of beauty evolves with age and life experiences. It manifests in different ways within our surroundings. If you ask me what beauty is, imperfection is a form of beauty."
Who: Edward, co-owner of Malaysia-based vintage label, Vintage Lah
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "Social media has become the primary influence on today's style. In contrast to the past, particularly the 90s, where we sourced our style references and fashion knowledge from traditional sources like TV, magazines, and movies. I cherish and archive fashion styles from various music cultures. I believe the connection between music and fashion lies in attitude and freedom."
Who: Ryan Lee, photographer and visual artist
Define "beauty". "I believe beauty lies in embracing yourself, from your strongest suits to your flaws."
What's the thought process behind your look? "Honestly, I've toned down my dressing style a lot. I used to be very maximalist, layering excessively, regardless of the weather or weight of the garments. However, now I mainly opt for T-shirts and skinny jeans for day-to-day wear. It's comfortable and still reflects the rock 'n' roll vibe I've always loved expressing through my style."
There are many references to past looks and eras, but we can't quite put my finger on it. How would you explain the influences on today's style? "I believe we're constantly influenced by the past. I often see people on the streets embracing a Y2K aesthetic, reminiscent of Fruits magazine and subcultures from that era. Another trend I've observed recently is the popularity of brands like 14th Edition and L.G.B, which draw inspiration from grunge and rockstars such as Jimi Hendrix. So, yeah, it's largely derived from past subcultures."
PRODUCTION, COORDINATION, PHOTOGRAPHY & TEXT MARISSE CAINE AS TOLD TO HIDZIR JUNAINI