They Are Giving Club Kids And New Romantics With Their Makeup

Between the ’70s and ’90s, the likes of the New Romantic movement in the UK and the Club Kid personalities of New York City stole the limelight in music and clubbing culture for their brazenly outrageous use of makeup to challenge social norms and create safe spaces for the marginalised all while having one hella good time. Fast forward to today and expressive Gen Z is doing the same beyond the dance floor. Ahead, we meet five individuals redefining the power of makeup and in turn beauty, be it for a night out, art or simply in their own personal time.

HALLE TAN, 21, SOCIOLOGY STUDENT, DJ, DRAG ARTIST AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE PARTY SERIES, RINGTONE, WHOSE GO-TO FIT FOR A NIGHT OUT ALWAYS INCLUDES A FULL FACE OF RADICAL, PAINTERLY MAKEUP

HER TRADEMARK BEAUTY LOOK: Best described as a blend of alien, clown and femme queen – she has strong affinity with drag culture and draws several influences from it. 

WHAT MAKEUP MEANS TO HER: “Why settle for what’s ordinary? With a little experimentation, I can transform myself into a much more amplified, empowered and bolder version of myself. In trying something different, I’ve learnt that you can even discover a whole new side to yourself… That said, remember that applying makeup is not an instant fix for when you want to feel alive and confident. It can transform your appearance, but you have to live and breathe the attitude to complete the look.”

HER MAKEUP ICONS: “My biggest inspirations are other drag and makeup content creators in Singapore and elsewhere globally: individuals such as Gottmik, Sasha Colby, Acyd Rayne, Bo Quinn, Charity Kase, Arrietty and Marvey. I love how such a wide variety of makeup styles has emerged from the drag scene – from traditional feminine faces to punk styles, monster looks and more. I learn a lot about makeup techniques and products from watching these creators’ videos, whether it’s their tutorials or simply them breaking down their makeup looks.”

HER FAVE MAKEUP TIP: “I use the grid method (a sketching technique in art that involves dividing an image into a series of smaller, more manageable sections) to make sure that my looks are as symmetrical and perfect as possible.”

HER MAKEUP MUST-HAVES: “I like eyeshadow palettes from the British online retailer Beauty Bay as they are highly pigmented, reasonably priced and have many colour options; White Foundation and Setting Spray from (the Californian beauty brand) Sunset Makeup help to ensure my makeup stays on throughout parties; and MAC’s Studio Fix Fluid Foundation and Locked Kiss Lipstick are both super long-lasting. For eyeliner, I’m not picky. I buy any from drugstores – they get the job done and I feel there’s little difference between them and designer ones. I also need my eyeliner to be affordable as I tend to use a lot of it.”

THE LOOK SHE’S CREATED FOR US: “It’s the classic Halle look: white foundation, strong contours, big eyes and big lips. I like exaggerating and intensifying my features. Honestly, there’s not much planning that goes into my makeup process unless I want to create something specific. I usually like to wear my makeup dark and symmetrical, and have it look dimensional, and would choose the colours I use or shapes I create on-the-spot and change things up spontaneously. For this shoot, I simply wanted to define all of my features.”

NOYONA BISWAS, 27, FINE ARTS STUDENT WHO LOVES ATTENDING RAVES AND UNDERGROUND EVENTS – AND GOING ALL OUT WITH THEIR MAKEUP WHEN DOING SO

THEIR TRADEMARK BEAUTY LOOK: Graphic, rough-hewn strokes with plenty of details inspired by the natural world, resulting in a primordial yet fantasy-like effect not unlike with her paintings and sketches as a fine arts student

WHAT MAKEUP MEANS TO THEM: “I grew up in the Middle East where heteronormative beauty standards were fed to me as soon as I hit teenhood. At that time, I hadn’t explored my queer identity and exhausted myself trying to fit into that narrow box. I didn’t know a single queer person then so I had no one to model my image after. All I remember was feeling alienated and not being able to explain why… I always longed for a sense of belonging and growing up in a place with strict gender roles pushed me out of the box even more… I started experimenting with bold makeup looks after being exposed to the underground scene in Singapore (she moved here in 2018 to pursue her degree in fine arts). The raves, and queer artists and musicians here have completely shattered my bubble and I’m so grateful for that. I’m a naturally shy person and receiving attention used to make me feel anxious. However my experiences in the local underground scene have made me feel safe and more confident. Now I have no qualms taking the train with full body paint and spikes in my hair when I’m headed to an event and even like doing so. It makes me feel in my own skin and that I’m personifying my art. I identify as androgynous and wearing such makeup is also a way of getting others to see beyond the sex I was born with when perceiving me.”

THEIR MAKEUP ICONS: “My family members and I are big fans of Kali, the Hindu goddess who symbolises female rage and wrath. I find her very magnetic and inspiring. And while this is not an icon per se, I love sharp, dark strokes that resemble the jagged edges of mountains.” 

THEIR FAVE MAKEUP TIP: “If you need makeup inspiration, try looking at animals and birds and the way their eyes are shaped as well as the colours of birds’ plumage. For example, I like to reference the features of crows and swans. I find that borrowing from the animal kingdom helps one to detach oneself from the limitations of his, her or their identity and in turn channel a more primitive force.”

THEIR MAKEUP MUST-HAVES: “When I do do a more everyday look, I use the Fenty Beauty Match Stix Contour Skinstick for eyeshadow, contour, blush and lipstick. I’m not loyal to any particular brand though I am partial to and will stock up on Huda Beauty because of its founder’s political views.”

THE LOOK THEY'VE CREATED FOR US: “As an artist, I love to create dreamscapes full of vivid characters to entertain myself. For this beauty look, I’ve used face paints to portray a character named Ratri (Hindi for night or darkness) whom I’ve invented for my upcoming graduation show. Ratri is an androgynous figure who symbolises my subconscious and it’s modelled after the anatomy of a neuron. I’ve painted and written about this character and now, I get to personify Ratri!”

SIM ANN LIN, 24, BRIDAL MAKEUP ARTIST WITH A KNACK FOR CREATING PRETTY, K-BEAUTY-INSPIRED LOOKS FOR HER CLIENTS AND – IN HER FREE TIME – OUTRE, SCI-FI-ESQUE LOOKS FOR HERSELF, ALL OF WHICH SHE DOCUMENTS ON HER PERSONAL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT @FOURANN

HER TRADEMARK BEAUTY LOOK: Often colour-soaked and always with a fun and futuristic edge – her personal experiments with cosmetics provide not only an outlet for creative expression, but also a way to hone her skills and techniques as a makeup artist

WHAT MAKEUP MEANS TO HER: “My goal (when experimenting with makeup) has always been to transform myself. I like to see where my creativity as a makeup artist can take me.”

HER MAKEUP ICONS: “(The Malaysian makeup artist) Mei Pang – aka @meicrosoft on Instagram – who’s very creative and comes up with original makeup ideas that often go viral. She’s made me think about how I can use makeup products differently and this has definitely improved my editorial makeup game. And while her ideas are very innovative (think using crumpled plastic bags to create floral-shaped stamps for the face), they’re quite beginner-friendly. This is what makes her so iconic within the beauty community.”

HER FAVE MAKEUP TIPS: “Blend! Always make sure to do so seamlessly. And one should also learn to be more precise with your application. Being able to keep everything super clean and sharp will take your makeup game up 10 notches.”

HER MAKEUP MUST-HAVES: “I love IT Cosmetics’ CC+ Cream Full-Coverage Foundation With SPF 50+ – it’s an all-in-one product that is infused with skincare benefits and covers everything effectively, even for those with blemished skin such as myself. I also dig the Fenty Beauty Match Stix Matte Contour Skinstick for its ease of use. For lips, I love (the South Korean brand) Rom&nd’s Juicy Lasting Tints – they come in really pretty colours that layer well and the glossy finish is lovely. And I find the Saem’s Cover Perfection Tip Concealer and Clio’s Superproof eyeliner very reliable – both are very affordable, long-lasting, don’t cause breakouts and are pretty smudge-resistant.”

THE LOOK SHE’S CREATED FOR US: “When I do makeup, there is no story behind the look 99 per cent of the time. To me, makeup should not have to be deep – or perhaps I’m just not artful enough. For this shoot, I just wanted to try something that I haven’t yet done. I always try to push my own creative boundaries and skill set whenever I do a shoot… I also usually make sure that the looks I come up with can be done using products from everyday consumer brands. However for this look, I decided to pull out my white face paint by (the special effects label) Mehron. Meanwhile the motif on my forehead was created using my favourite eyeshadow palette from Anastasia Beverly Hills, Norvina Pro Pigment Palette Vol. 6 for Face and Body.”

STYLING JULIA MAE WONG NAILS KASSIDY CHUA

XERVIXIA, 23, SCHOOL TEACHER AND MULTIDISCIPLINARY ARTIST WHO RECENTLY STARTED MAKEUP CLASSES TO PROVIDE A SAFE SPACE FOR QUEER FOLKS TO EXPERIMENT WITH COSMETICS

THEIR TRADEMARK BEAUTY LOOK: Xervixia’s looks are other-worldly and alien-esque, accented by artful, organic lines and shapes – makeup has always been a personal interest for them and something they experiment with during their free time to push creative boundaries.

WHAT MAKEUP MEANS TO THEM: “Mainstream beauty standards are overrated and boring. Realistically, how many variations of a cut crease can there be? I enjoy shocking people, and I think it’s a good thing when someone looks at me and feels provoked to think … I’ve had young girls come up to me shyly in the MRT and tell me that they think I look really cool – and that’s why I do what I do.”

THEIR MAKEUP ICONS: “Artistes such as (Chinese drag performer) Niohuru X and (Argentina-based Colombian drag performer) Orkgotik, general angst and the state of the world are my inspirations at the moment.”

THEIR MAKEUP TIP: “Feel free to go wild with an eyeliner right before your shower at night, decide what you like about the look, then build on it the next day.”

THEIR MAKEUP MUST-HAVES: “My beauty looks can be created with a marker if need be. What I used to create my look for this shootare typical makeup products for the face, along with crazy lenses, stick-on metal studs and a lot of audacity."

THE LOOK THEY'VE CREATED FOR US: “I tend to come up with my looks on-the-spot and just hope for the best. All I knew was that I wanted to have completely blacked eyes and teeth, silver accents and just be dripping with confidence and power.”

JESS JEREMIAH, 21, CHEMISTRY STUDENT WHO WHIPS UP BOLD LOOKS THAT CHALLENGE THE DEFINITION OF GOOD MAKEUP BOTH WHEN SHE’S PERFORMING AS THE DRAG ARTIST ACYD RAYNE AND IN HER PERSONAL TIME

HER TRADEMARK BEAUTY LOOK: Kabuki-esque made modern with a proclivity for lots of neon hues

WHAT MAKEUP MEANS TO HER: “After mastering classic makeup styles, I found myself getting bored of doing (ordinary) glam so I started to try out more fun colours and create weirder shapes and different textures. For me, makeup is a form of illusion… Nowadays, beauty isn’t so much about prettiness or attractiveness as it is about expressing oneself clearly. For example, I think that makeup no longer needs to be about having smooth skin, contours and highlights, or perfectly manicured brows. Instead good makeup is now about how willing one is to push boundaries. That’s why I love bleached or shaved brows, electric blue eyeshadow and orange cheeks – they’re just so much more fun and intriguing.”

HER MAKEUP ICONS: “Instead of specific people, I am more inspired by themes, objects and stories. They can be things as random as capitalism or smoke ash, and I will find a way to translate it into a look.”

HER FAVE MAKEUP TIPS: “I started watching YouTube tutorials, reviews and GRWM videos for education and entertainment, but as I got more into them, I found that my own technique works best for me: Instead of classic blending techniques such as the windshield wiper move or going in circles with your brush, I prefer to press and drag. And never be afraid to use your fingers when applying makeup.”

HER MAKEUP MUST-HAVES: “Trixie Cosmetics’ black and white gel eyeliners are absolutely essential to every drag look that I do – they’re very water- and smudge-proof, making them great for days where I need my makeup to be long-lasting. I also find MAC Cosmetics’ Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Sink To A Whisper (a white colour) to be an incredible eye primer for bright shadows, which is used all the time for drag makeup.”

THE LOOK SHE’S CREATED FOR US: “It’s something from my artsy drag side, which I separate from my usual drag persona. I don’t go out in such artsy drag looks because they’re meant more for creating a beautiful photo instead of going out, and are thus not long-wearing… I was inspired by a few different things including robots, animatronics, spray paint and the neon hues of the ’80s. The big idea was to recreate the look and effect of spray paint, which is hard to control and to create sharp lines with. Most of the time, my base makeup is a full-coverage matte foundation or cream stick – I especially enjoy using the TV Paint Stick by (the professional makeup brand) Kryolan in 070, which is so useful for mixing to create a colourful foundation, highlighting or on its own as a full white base. The neon pigments are the same kind used for nail art, while the black and white eyeliner that I’ve used around my eyes as well as – in the case of the black – also on my lips are from Trixie Cosmetics, which is founded and owned by the iconic drag queen Trixie Mattel.”

This article first appeared in the May 2024 Beauty Edition of FEMALE