Where To Go In New Zealand’s North Island For Design And City Lovers
With a moniker like ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’, New Zealand’s North Island is a landscape defined by its grand vistas. But what to do when you aren’t quite the outdoorsy type?A self-proclaimed city girl shares her picks to comfortably enjoy New Zealand without fully disappearing into the wild.
Travel often begins with an idea of a place – a hazy image conjured up by other people’s pictures and words, forming a dream that makes you want to pack your bags and make your way to parts unknown. Gothic cathedrals and cobblestone streets evoke a profound sense of history in Paris. Paper screens and delicate tea ceremonies hint at the zen serenity exalted in Kyoto. When it comes to New Zealand, though, a different sort of sensation comes to mind: an unmistakable sense of vitality. The national greeting ‘Kia Ora’ in Te Reo Māori, the indigenous language, roughly translates to ‘have life.’
Orakei Korako’s geothermal park and cave offer a refreshing break from city sights.
Given its lush green mountains, icy blue fjords, and volcanic activity, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that such an emphasis on natural elements takes centre stage. When it comes to tourism in New Zealand, the feeling of being alive is further heightened by the popularity of its heart-pounding adventure sports – think skiing, white-water rafting, and ziplines. But what can a person do when she is decidedly not an adrenaline junkie and more of a city girlie?
After a day immersed in New Zealand’s wild beauty, the charming shops on Karangahape Road offer the perfect dose of urban charm.
New Zealand seems beautiful, but also intimidating for someone who holidays in a city, wandering through museums and perusing little shops. Camping for a week in the woods without access to running water and hiking for hours on end sounds like punishment to this bookworm of decidedly subpar athletic ability.
Worried that the Hobbiton remake in The Hobbit might be too touristy? Fear not – it's enchanting enough to charm even the most sceptical traveller.
So, is New Zealand really for me and my need for creature comforts? It turns out, yes, it most definitely is. Here are some manageable outdoorsy activities and design-centric experiences, below, that let me enjoy New Zealand’s natural wonders while keeping my indoor cat self appeased. Kia ora, indeed.
Disclaimer: While information is accurate at this time, opening times, etc. may be subject to change. Please check prior to visiting.
THE HOTEL BRITOMART
Instead of jumping straight into the wilderness of New Zealand, we decide to spend a night in Auckland, its biggest city, to ease the transition. Our base of operations is The Hotel Britomart, a gorgeous eco-chic establishment that opened in 2020. With timber walls and touches of brick and stone, the place feels casual and luxurious in the best way. Even better is its location in the Britomart area. This part of downtown Auckland, near the waterfront, provides walking access to a number of shops and restaurants. Many homegrown New Zealand brands – like Karen Walker, Allbirds, and Deadly Ponies – have a retail presence. Food choices are also ample, with enticing options such as Kingi, Mr. Morris, and Caretaker. The spicy ceviche at Alma, my first bite of food post-aeroplane meal, is particularly reviving.
Hot tip: The neighbourhood is also home to some great public art like Maunga by Shane Cotton, which features an impressive 25 pot forms along a building wall on Customs Street East. It's worth spending some time walking around and looking up.
Address: 29 Galway Street, CBD, Auckland 1010
Website: thehotelbritomart.com
REDWOODS TREEWALK
Our first foray into the greenery of New Zealand is with the easy Redwoods Treewalk in Rotorua. Nestled among giant redwood trees and silver ferns, the 700-metre-long aerial trail spans 28 suspension bridges and 27 platforms. Lifted up to 20 metres off the forest floor, the views are lovely and the atmosphere peaceful. On the first bridge, nerves do come into play a bit (add a slight fear of heights to my list of foibles), but by the last bridge I don’t even notice the height. The overwhelming impression is one of soothing quiet, blissful green, and crisp, cool air.
Hot tip: It was breathtaking in the mid-afternoon during our visit when the golden light of the setting sun streamed through the trees. There is also a night version of the walk, which involves artificial lighting.
Address: 1 Long Mile Road, Titokorangi Drive, Whakarewarewa, Rotorua 3010
Website: www.treewalk.co.nz
NATIONAL KIWI HATCHERY
Remember when you were a kid and school field trips were a fun highlight? Visiting the National Kiwi Hatchery feels a bit like that, with its educational and family-friendly vibes. The tour of the conservation facility includes learning about New Zealand’s national bird, walking through a purpose-built nocturnal house, and getting a peek at the incubation and hatching facilities. The staff are passionate about the programme, which aims to save the brown kiwi population by taking eggs with a low chance of survival in the wild to safely hatch and grow here before being released back into the wild.
Hot tip: Pick the season carefully. When we visited, the last of the kiwi chicks of the season had hatched so we did not get to see the incubation or hatching areas in as much use. It could be worth asking ahead of time.
Address: Agrodome, 141 Western Road, Ngongotaha, Rotorua 3010
Website: www.nationalkiwihatchery.org.nz
ORAKEI KORAKO
The surprise highlight of the trip is Orakei Korako. The geothermal park and cave, located between Rotorua and Taupo, is accessible by a quick ferry ride across the Waikato River. The landscape is awe-inspiring and diverse, with the boardwalk and path taking you through silica terraces with wafting steam, natural geysers, bubbling mud pools, and deep forest. At times it feels like we are walking on the surface of Mars or somewhere ancient and mystical. The colours, too, are enthralling, with the geological mixture of silica deposits, microbial mats, and hydrothermal eruptions evoking the beauty of geodes come to life. The terrain is not fully level – some parts involve a fair amount of ascending steps – so this may not be suitable for those with limited mobility. However, for those who can manage, spectacular views await.
Hot tip: The temperature at Orakei Korako is often two to three degrees higher than its surroundings thanks to all this geothermal activity. Layers are helpful so you can adjust.
Address: 494 Orakeikorako Road, Taupo 3083
Website: www.orakeikorako.co.nz
FORGOTTEN WORLD ADVENTURES
There’s something about the mix of history and adventure that makes me feel just a tad Indiana Jones-esque. That sensation comes to the forefront on this rail cart excursion that traverses parts of the now-abandoned Stratford-Okahukura railway line. We get to drive the carts ourselves (basically idiot-proof, as they can’t veer away from the track) and enjoy the beauty of this remote area of the North Island, known as the Forgotten World. In addition to taking in the native bush, rugged hills, and hidden valleys with only sheep and cattle for company, we get to drive over bridges and through tunnels, and learn about the lives and history that shaped these places.
Hot tip: It is helpful to consider the direction of the course you select. Certain routes will have a longer bus ride after the excursion to deliver you back to the starting point. Additionally, we did the shortest half-day option and that still provided plenty of experience.
Address: 9 Hakiaha Street, Taumarunui 3920
Website: forgottenworldadventures.co.nz
WAITOMO GLOWWORM CAVES & RUAKURI CAVES
Seeing the glowworm caves in New Zealand has sort of been a bucket-list item of mine, as they seem both incredible and aspirational. There are several places where they exist, but we make our way to Waitomo, which has one of the largest and most popular locations. After a short walk underground, we embark on a pitch-black, silent boat ride through a grotto. The sight is unbelievable in many ways. The dark space and the brilliant glows make me think of the Milky Way galaxy suddenly made close and astonishingly tangible.
There are two other caves in the Waitomo network – Ruakuri and Aranui – and I would highly recommend visiting another as well. Our visit to Ruakuri was more intimate (thanks to the small group size) and extensive (more physical ground covered and history shared by the guide), and it was wonderful to take in the incredible limestone formations of stalactites and stalagmites up close. It even has glowworms, though not to the extent of the Waitomo Glowworm Caves. Surprisingly, if forced to pick only one cave, I might recommend Ruakuri over its more popular relative.
Hot tip: Photography is not allowed at the Waitomo Glowworm Caves, but is allowed at Ruakuri Cave. The latter is also wheelchair accessible.
Address: 39 Waitomo Village Road, Waitomo Caves 3977
Website: www.waitomo.com/glowworms-and-caves
HOBBITON
Never has there been a film more associated with a country than The Lord of the Rings with New Zealand. At one point, Air New Zealand even featured creatures from Tolkien’s imagination in its safety videos! Although the sets for The Shire were taken down after the filming of the original trilogy, The Hobbit films later led to the creation of a permanent Hobbiton. I initially worry that this experience may feel too touristy, but that concern quickly falls by the wayside. The set tour is delightful, and seeing a corner of Middle-Earth come to life – with all its meticulous detail and living, breathing greenery – is absolutely captivating. One highlight, among others, is getting to go inside a full-sized, furnished hobbit hole that was only opened in December 2023. We were all ready to move in.
Hot tip: The tour experience includes a free drink at the Green Dragon Inn, but don’t overlook its food. Feeling peckish, we pick up a savoury scone (second breakfast, anyone?) and my goodness is it delicious. The idyllic surroundings probably help.
Address: 501 Buckland Road, Matamata 3472
Website: www.hobbitontours.com
THE CONVENT HOTEL
After a week of one-night stays at various rural Airbnbs – a necessity due to the locations – stepping back into a hotel in the city feels like returning to opulent times. I have a particular fondness for repurposed buildings with interesting histories (one of our Airbnbs is a repurposed two-room schoolhouse from the 1800s!), and this boutique hotel hits the mark. A former convent, it houses quirky design details that harken back to its previous life. The neighbourhood of Grey Lynn is quieter and more residential than downtown Auckland, but the sunset views of the surrounding trees, houses, and hills in the distance are quite lovely.
Hot tip: The restaurant Ada, attached to the hotel, is also worth a visit. Popular for its fresh, seasonal fare – a hallmark of New Zealand dining – it serves diners in its intimate green atrium of a space.
Address: 454 Great North Road, Grey Lynn, Auckland 1021
Website: www.theconventhotel.co.nz and www.adarestaurant.co.nz
KARANGAHAPE ROAD
While not a major shopping capital per se, Auckland still has quiet but charming areas that offer opportunities for retail exploration. Karangahape Road – named for the Māori tohunga (practitioner) Hape, who, legend has it, performed a karanga (summons) there – is one such concentration of cafes, restaurants, and shops. After fuelling up at coffee shop Daily Daily, we walk towards St Kevin’s Arcade on K-Road, which houses a number of fun establishments in its light-filled passage. There are a number of vintage and thrift shops in the area, such as Paper Bag Princess, Smoove, Vixen, and Crushes, as well as Flying Out and The Green Dolphin Bookshop – the latter two offer an appealing selection of second-hand records and books.
Hot tip: If I can, I like to pick up local authors from places I’m visiting. This time it’s a book of poetry by New Zealand writer Bill Manhire from The Green Dolphin. Although we didn’t have time, Ponsonby is a nearby neighbourhood I would have also liked to check out.
Address: 183 Karangahape Road, CBD, Auckland 1010
Website: www.stkevinsarcade.co.nz
AUCKLAND ART GALLERY
There are ways to encounter nature, even in a city setting. At the Auckland Art Gallery, there is currently an exhibition that does just that. The show Taimoana, Coastlines: Art in Aotearoa contemplates the idea of the coast as a starting point that connects land and sea, and one that is important for many in New Zealand. It features a number of regional artists and perspectives on this unique cultural narrative, such as Jasmine Togo-Brisby’s haunting and powerful Mother Tongue (2020). The 10-minute video, shot from overhead, reflects on forced Pacific Islander displacement and labour through three generations of women encountering the sunken remnants of the slave ship Don Juan.
Hot tip: Entry to the museum is free, which takes the pressure off the length of your visit. Although it is New Zealand’s largest art institution it is still of a fairly manageable size, so you can make it through the exhibits quite quickly.
Address: Wellesley Street East, CBD, Auckland 1010
Website: www.aucklandartgallery.com