Launched in 2002, Chanel's annual Metiers d'Art (it means "Master of Art" in French) collection is a love letter to the artisans and ateliers behind every aspect of the collection: embroiderers, jewellery-makers, shoemakers, milliners and more. This year's edition, which is currently in stores, sees eight ateliers working closely alongside creative director Virginie Viard to create a lavish collection that Viard describes as "metropolitan yet sophisticated".
Gary Schermann
Le19M currently houses a total of 11 ateliers and specialist maisons and 600 members of staff across its 250,000 square meter space who are solely dedicated to Chanel's Metiers d'Art
The ateliers involved this year – Lesage, Montex, Goossens, Maison Michel, Lemarie, Lognon, Desrues and Massaro – are just a sampling of the 11 that are now housed under one roof at Chanel's newly-opened Le19M building, and the reported 40 artisanal houses and workshops that Chanel has amassed through the years.
And though the clothes often get the spotlight, this year's accessories department served up some serious savoir faire. Ahead, a selection of accessories from this year's collection showcasing the fine workmanship of each atelier.
Traditionally worn by men in the late 19th century, boater hats were an accessory Mademoiselle Chanel popularised among women in the early 1900s. This year's collection sees milliner Maison Michel work with embroidery atelier Lesage to reinterpret the classic straw boater: a tweed boater hat that tops any look with a bold masculinity.
The jewellery house Goossens, which is famed for drawing influences from Ancient Egypt and Byzantium, has been crafting detailed costume jewellery pieces for Chanel since the mid-20th century. Founder Robert Goossens' baroque style that combined raw elements and juxtaposing materials was what caught the eye of Gabrielle Chanel. The lion face relief on the cuff holds a powerful significance to Mademoiselle Chanel: Not only does it signify her astrological sign (she's a Leo), it's also the emblem of her favourite city, Venice. Her love for the animal runs deep; incorporating its imagery into buttons, handbag clasps, costume jewellery and even decorating her 31 rue Cambon apartment with lion figures.
Produced by the 50-man Montex embroidery atelier, this diamante camellia brooch is festooned in glittery crystal strass. The artisans spent 15 hours to produce a single brooch, sewing together close to 3,000 crystals onto the petals by hand.
Established in 1894 by Raymond Massaro, it was his creation of the now iconic two-toned slingbacks for Gabrielle Chanel in 1957 that forged the relationship between the two Maisons (Massaro was acquired by Chanel in 2002). The two-toned sandals were reinterpreted into heels (pictured) this season, and are made with a shiny goatskin, enhanced with details like the 'CC' signature. A tapered heel offers a flattering elongated look, while the black satin toe allows the foot to appear smaller.
Each pair is handcrafted by artisans that include blockmakers, cutters and stitchers. Mary Janes are a common style seen on the Chanel runway, like the block heeled mesh creation here. The wider heel provides the wearer comfort and added boldness, juxtaposed with the thin string of pearls that wrap the back of the heel.