12 Fashion Brands Channelling That Phoebe Philo Vibes
The obsession with (and influence of) Phoebe Philo is real
By Ying Rui,
Mark your calendars, Philo-philes, for March 7, as the renowned English fashion designer is set to release her second "edit" since launching her eponymous label in October 2023. In that debut, two-thirds of the collection reportedly sold out within 24 hours despite the hefty price tags.
However, during her absence from the industry in the past six years, her signature style – minimalistic, raw, and focused on empowering women through honest, wearable clothes – has left a void that her proteges continue to fill. Designers such as Peter Do, Daniel Lee, and Matthieu Blazy are among those championing similar aesthetics.
Rachel Yap, co-founder of the multi-label store Billie, considers the shift away from the fast-paced, trend-driven approach of recent years as a welcome change. The store's curated collection, featuring labels like Vienna-based Christina Seewald and Parisian jewellery label Hugo Kreit, reflects this Philo-inspired trend. Yap explains that this trend emphasizes offering pieces that last, allowing retailers to reinforce their commitment to quality, timelessness, and celebrating individual style.
To help you explore this trend further, we've shortlisted a few contemporary brands that offer similar aesthetics at a more affordable level.
When it started: 2021
Who is behind it: Anna Teurnell and Moa Strand
What it does: The Swedish brand's design expression is timelessly sleek and pared back — yet with a touch of 'candy minimalism,' adding femininity and a unique edge to its 'progressive luxury' pieces. Teurnell was the Head of Design at H&M and & Other Stories before taking on the role of Creative Director at Marimekko and the Design Director position at Arket. "To me, those clashes between perfection and edge, between masculine references and feminine cuts, between statement pieces and functional wearability, are at the core of what Teurn is all about," says Teurnell about the Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
Where to buy it: Ssense and www.teurnstudios.com
When it started: 2021
Who is behind it: Isabel Wilkinson Schor
What it does: Isabel Wilkinson Schor launched Attersee to create elegant clothing in easy-to-wear silhouettes, but she doesn't see the label as part of the quiet luxury trend. Attersee is named after the lake in Upper Austria where the artist Gustav Klimt spent his summers around the turn of the 20th century. The overall vibe is about being easy and comfortable in your skin, whether you're on holiday — or not. The smart shirting, tailored pants, and chic coats are designed to elevate the daily ritual of getting dressed, and fans of the New York label include Sofia Coppola and Riley Keough.
Where to buy it: www.shopattersee.com
When it started: 2021
Who is behind it: Alissa Zachary
What it does best: The Italian-made essentials are tailored from the signature fabric, which took four years to develop. A unique blend of French Lycra and a soft Italian cotton-blend knit, the outcome is a piece of clothing that is flattering and comfortable. Elevating athleisure to another level, industry insiders flocked to get their hands on the kick flare pants. With a decade of experience at the Row and Khaite, Zachary knew that the best clothing always checked three boxes: "easy to style, easy to wear, and easy to care for.” The next item that’s going to be the big hit? We predict the sporty box blazer.
Where to buy it: Moda Operandi and Net-a-Porter
When it started: 2021
Who is behind it: Gabriella Pereira
What it does: Using high-quality fabrics sourced from the finest mills in France, Japan, and Italy, everything is made in Australia in small-batch collections. Since its launch during Australian Fashion Week, when it sold out of its $4,900 shearling teddy coats, the brand has evolved to have a bold and elegant aesthetic anchored in masterful tailoring that transcends seasonality. The Australian brand celebrates the principles of slow fashion and seeks to create new pathways towards a circular fashion industry. "I idolise Phoebe Philo. She's a pioneer who designs clothes from a female perspective that allows women to feel chic but not like they're trying too hard," said Pereira.
Where to buy it: Net-a-Porter and www.bearepark.com
When it started: 2019
Who is behind it: Chloe Harrouche
What it does: Fashion consultant turned digital influencer Chloe Harrouche founded Loulou Studio in Paris, the city she considers her artistic and sartorial muse. "There’s something decidedly strong and yet purposefully soft about Loulou Studio. I’d like to think of my designs as soft armours, giving women intimate confidence,” says Harrouche. Made of natural fabrics carefully sourced in Europe or cashmere from Mongolia, cosy up in these easy to wear wardrobe essentials.
Where to buy it: Net-a-Porter, Ssense, The Outnet and https://louloustudio.fr/
When it started: 2017
Who is behind it: Ji Young and Won Seob Lee
What it does: A complex and glamorous style is not the focus of this South Korean duo; instead, the designers employ simple colors to represent a comfortable and stereoscopic style. Cue the loose tailoring and durable fabrics often used for masculine workwear, transformed into feminine utilitarian designs saturated in luxe earth tones.
Where to buy it: Net-a-Porter, Ssense, Farfetch and www.lvirdtla.com
When it started:2016
Who is behind it: Catherine Holstein
What it does: Pronounced Kate, the name is inspired by Catherine's nickname Cate, and the Greek word Khaite, which means long flowing hair and is a nod to the label’s focus on femininity. The New York label is a favourite of Katie Holmes (who made headlines with the brand’s cashmere bra-cardigan combo), Hailey Bieber likes its Abigail straight-leg jeans, and Rihanna loves the brand’s understated Olivia bag. The polished staples transcend trends while you can have fun with the statement accessories such as the embellished mesh Marcy ballet flats and Dallas cowboy boots.
Where to buy it: Club21, Net-a-Porter and MyTheresa
When it started: 2015
Who is behind it: Matches Fashion
What it does: The in-house label of e-retailer Matches Fashion is for the woman who loves to be casually androgynous and unflinchingly cool. "The aim for Raey is to create clothes that people want to wear," says creative director Rachael Proud. Expect seasonless luxury collections of high-quality core pieces alongside trend-led yet timeless styles in organic materials and innovative recycled fibres in a palette of signature navy, cream, black, and grey.
Where to buy it: www.matchesfashion.com
When it started: 2014
Who is behind it: Lara Fells and Matt Fells
What it does: Founded in Byron Bay, the offerings from this Australian brand are a minimalist's dream come true. The name St. Agni was inspired by one of our greatest influences, Fells' Nona Agni. The name Agni comes from the Greek adjective agnos, which means pure, clean, chaste, unspoilt. The brand first launched with three bags and has since evolved into clothing and footwear. With a less-is-more philosophy, the pieces are all easy to mix and match and can become a uniform. According to the duo, they carefully consider the impact on the environment and select natural materials that are easily broken down, avoiding the use of synthetics where possible, only using them when the integrity of the garment requires it.
Where to buy it: Net-a-Porter, Fwrd and www.st-agni.com
When it started: 2016
Who is behind it: Veronika Kant and William Lundgren
What it does best: With founders from Sweden, Bite stands for By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress. All of its products are made in Italy and Portugal, with 98 per cent of the collections created from organic and low-impact materials such as silk, cotton, and wool. Unfussy silhouettes, tactile textures, and a hint of skin are characteristics of the Scandinavian brand that creates elegant designs suitable for easy wear 24/7.
Where to buy it: Net-a-Porter, Ssense and https://bitestudios.com
When it started: 2015
Who is behind it: Paris Mitchell Temple and Georgia Cherrie
What it does: Paris Georgia produces womenswear inspired by the women who wear it — women they admire, such as their mothers, friends, and collaborators. Women who value strength and culture and require these ideals within the brands they represent. Kendall Jenner, Lorde, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley have been seen in the Kiwi brand’s signature contrast trim tank, oversized suits, and slinky slips. The brand recently expanded into footwear with the Dune wedge, featuring a square-toe flip-flop silhouette.
Where to buy it: Ssnese, Revolve and www.parisgeorgia.com
When it started: 2013
Who is behind it: Anna Quan
What it does best: Seen on Anne Hathaway, Georgia Fowler, and Eva Mendes, the Australian label is a great example of elevated tailoring with beautiful form and feminine details. Using signature modern tailoring across trans-seasonal designs, the brand aims to make dressing feel special, no matter the mood or moment. Specializing in knits, this season Quan experiments with sheer elements for endless layering options. For something bold and statement, pick a pair of oversized earrings in gold or silver; we love the Amelie earrings.
Where to buy it: SocietyA, Farfetch and www.annaquan.com