Denise Chong: The Gen-Z Beadwork Designer Challenging Norms
One of the newest designers on the local scene, Chong’s work is bold, sensual and intricate.
Mention beadwork and images of indigenous accessories, religious and paraphernalia will naturally come to mind. But in the fashion world, the retro-inflected material is something of a design gem.
For example, Scandinavian jewellery brand Anni Lu has amassed a steady following thanks to its chic beaded bracelets and necklaces. Native American designers like Jamie Okuma are also working to modernise the craft of beadwork. Okuma’s most recognised piece is her hand-beaded Christian Louboutin shoes.
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Then there is the young Central Saint Martins alumna and LVMH Prize 2019 nominee Susan Fang who is celebrated for her ethereal bubble-like bead bags and creations.
Denise Chong is a second-year undergraduate at Lasalle College of the Arts and dabbled in the art of beadwork during the circuit breaker.
Over on our shores, 22-year-old Denise Chong is paving the way as a beadwork designer with her creations that seem to have stepped out of the Mod universe ruled by Paco Rabanne and the recently departed Pierre Cardin.
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The second-year Fashion Media undergraduate of Lasalle College of the Arts discovered her passion for the craft during Singapore’s circuit breaker, with more time on her hands for personal projects.
Chong is intrigued by how fashion can be used as "an art form [that] provokes the human mind" which explains her experimental approach to her designs.
The student, who considers beadwork design as a pet project, launched her first collection 'Coercion' soon after, comprising headwear and garments like a mini skirt and bralette. Provocative, subversive, and bearing hints of a '90s Helmut Lang-meets-modern-day-Nensi Dojaka aesthetic, the designs are Chong's ode "to evoke the lustfulness of a woman’s body" and primed for the Gen-Z crowd.
The designs also serve as the perfect opportunity for this young creative to collaborate with her generation's image makers like the photographers Feedbeng and Li Wanjie who have each immortalised her works in their photos.
Ahead, we chat with this up-and-coming designer about her craft.
How did you first get intrigued by beadwork?
"I think I stumbled upon a type of beading method that was quite unique, which made me want to create beaded pieces with that technique in mind. I was intrigued by the fact that many small beads can create a beautiful garment. With beading, you don’t really have to start from scratch when you make a mistake – you’ll realise almost immediately, and that’s what I really enjoy about working with the material."
There has been a revival of working with retro materials such as beadwork. What's their appeal now?
"I feel that beadwork is something that is readily accessible and interesting to pick up as a hobby. With the trend of beaded rings and necklaces popping up, I think more people would want to create their own little trinkets too."
What kind of items do you create, and who are your fashion influences?
"I create beaded garments and accessories that aren't super wearable and meant for shoot purposes. I get inspired by brands like Mugler and (recent Central Saint Martins graduate) Nensi Dojaka that create garments with form-fitting silhouettes, which I translate into my beaded garments. I love the idea of ‘dressing the way you style’. My fashion influences are Carine Roitfeld and basically anything that (Mugler's creative director) Casey Cadwallader would put on his models."
Would you consider moving into wearable fashion?
"I think wearable fashion isn’t my cup of tea, as I enjoy challenging social norms with the beaded creations I design. Personally, normalcy feels stale. Thus, I enjoy the process of creating something out of the ordinary."
Describe your aesthetic and the message you are looking to put out with your work?
"I'm intrigued by how fashion as an art form provokes the human mind to feel either lust, anger, shock, or disgust. That's how I feel about the work I put out, be it in my first beaded collection or the creative work I produce. I think it's important to feel something when you look at an image.
In my current collection, I wanted to evoke the lustfulness of a woman’s body that the garments I create could accentuate. With the bralette and skirt that I made, I made them tighter for fit and created a thong-like design for the skirt − to create that sex appeal.
Being a woman myself, I feel that there is a certain empowerment you obtain when people gaze at you due to the suggestiveness of your garments or the way you carry yourself. That is exactly what I want people to feel when they see the images."
Could you describe the amount of work that goes into your designs?
"It takes roughly two to three days to complete a piece depending on what I'm beading – it'll be shorter for a smaller piece, and longer for a bigger piece. It's pretty much repetitive with beading and the more you bead, the faster what you imagine comes to life.
Where do you source your materials from?
"I believe in sourcing them right here in Singapore. I usually get them from small shops owned by uncles and aunties who have been in the bead business for a long time. That way I can support their businesses as well."
What challenges do you face as a homegrown designer and working with this type of material?
"I’m looking to continue my beaded collections with no intent on creating anything super wearable. As such, my funds are sadly bound to drop. But it's still something I do out of passion and interest, so I will continue doing it as a side gig.
In terms of material, it’s hard finding pretty beads. I’m super particular about that. I try to select beads that aren’t commonly used, to differentiate myself from other beadwork. With the beads I choose and the pieces I create, I usually have to buy all of what the store has. So I have to wait for the owners to order more stocks for me, which is a long process."
How do you hope to further develop your craft and push the envelope when it comes to design and fashion?
"I do hope to create more custom pieces for clients that are made to measure. In terms of design, I want to be more experimental with making what I feel drawn to − perhaps making a bigger and more challenging piece."
What upcoming projects are you working on?
"I'm currently working on a new collection catering to more diverse body types. If there’s one thing the fashion industry has taught me these few years, it would be that everyone deserves a chance to feel beautiful in whatever they choose to wear.
I have not thought of any future collaborations at the moment, but I think it would be interesting to work with different photographers that are keen on shooting my future collections."