The Cult DIY Clothing Label: Fassbender & Mellon Collie
The up-and-coming homegrown fashion brand you should know.
Ethan Lee never set out to start a fashion label. Like many businesses born in the age of side hustles and social media, Fassbender & Mellon Collie’s story began with an Instagram page. In its early days, it wasn’t exactly a business – more of a creative outlet. “I’d document and journal my experimentation with different dyeing methods,” says the 29‑year‑old. “I was mainly dyeing and repurposing old clothes for my friends.”
If he were to pinpoint the moment when he wanted to develop Fassbender & Mellon Collie into a brand, it would be in 2020, when he had the opportunity to dye some trousers for London‑based label AFFXWRKS – long before the brand was even selling stock. “I took that as a sign to put more time and effort into growing the label,” he tells us.
Five years later, Fassbender & Mellon Collie is a full‑fledged fashion label, stocked at retailers such as Dover Street Market and Open Door Store, and now has a newly opened shop: a cosy little corner on the third floor of Pearl’s Hill Terrace (#03‑26).
In an unassuming corner of Pearl’s Hill Terrace is Fassbender & Mellon Collie, which started as an Instagram page but runs today as a full‑fledged fashion label. Its multi‑hyphenate founder Ethan Lee juggles a full‑time job as a tennis coach and managing the brand. This packed schedule means that for now, access to the store is appointment‑only.
Ethan, you started Fassbender & Mellon Collie the fashion brand five years ago, but only just opened a physical studio this July. Congratulations! Why the move from online to real life?
“Thank you. I’ve always believed in the physical shopping experience because I myself enjoy it. However, when I started Fassbender & Mellon Collie, I didn’t plan to open a bricks‑and‑mortar store – it was really just a home‑based business, where most of my customers were my friends. But after five years, my customer base has expanded and I realised I needed a space not just to showcase my products, but also for people to shop. The opportunity arose when my friend Jonathan from No Sense Studio asked me to share a space with him. It was a no‑brainer, as we shared similar interests and I could see how well the clothes would fit into his space. I was lucky when Jonathan approached me to collaborate.”
What do you think has allowed your business to buck the trend of weak sales?
“I honestly don’t think we’re affected by the trend of people not buying. I believe Singaporeans are willing to spend their disposable income on good products or services they believe in. In other words, if a product is good and relatable, it can move!”
As a young designer in Singapore, how have you seen the fashion scene evolve and how does it influence your creative process?
“The fashion scene has definitely changed. More and more people are putting in the effort to care about what they wear. Although it may sound superficial, I believe that when people dress well, brands will be able to perform well!”
What do you think people want to buy most now, and how does Fassbender & Mellon Collie appeal to these wants and needs?
“I really don’t know what people want. I just try to produce clothes that I’d wear – clothes with a little feeling and soul, as corny as that sounds.”
Does the business of fast fashion influence the way Fassbender & Mellon Collie works and operates in any way?
“I have no beef with fast‑fashion brands. Apart from the alleged poor labour conditions and environmentally damaging processes, I think fast‑fashion brands and retailers create opportunities for people to purchase good clothes at affordable prices. I don’t treat these brands as competitors, as I believe we’re selling different products.”
While Lee never planned on opening a store (or launching a fashion label, for that matter), his growing customer base pushed him to take that step. Armed with a record player, a shared collection of vinyls, fashion books and magazines, and a bottle of whisky or two, Lee worked with Jonathan Tan of No Sense Studio (the interior design firm sharing the Pearl’s Hill Terrace premises with Fassbender & Mellon Collie) to create what he describes as “a cosy and intimate space where meaningful, slow conversations could be made” – a space that matches his clothes that, as Lee puts it, have “a little feeling and soul”. They even lowered the ceiling with plywood, all to set the mood for his first bricks‑and‑mortar store.
What’s the least and most expensive item you stock?
“The least expensive item would probably be our two‑pack socks that retail for $30, while the most expensive item, as of now, would be our dyed denim trousers at $300.”
Does a fashion entrepreneur need a fashion or a business degree to have a successful career?
“This is a tough question. There are successful fashion entrepreneurs who have never been to fashion or business school, and successful ones who have. I have a degree in retail marketing, and I feel that being in that environment definitely shaped my mind and thoughts in a certain way.”
What has been the most valuable lesson you’ve learnt in taking your brand to this stage?
“You have to take risks. I’ve never been much of a risk‑taker, but through the years, I’ve learnt that sometimes, there’s only one way to find out …”
And any advice for aspiring business owners on growing their brand?
“My advice would be to start small and see if your product is able to sell. Save and scale up with your profits.”
You’re also a full‑time tennis coach. Any tips on juggling a successful business and a day job?
“Time management is important. There’s no end to your work when it comes to managing a business. You just have to prioritise and compartmentalise your time well.”
THIS INTERVIEW HAS BEEN EDITED FOR BREVITY AND CLARITY.
PHOTOGRAPHY ANGELA GUO ART DIRECTION JONATHAN CHIA