The Duo Behind The Salvages On Modern Streetwear Culture
Singapore's streetwear pioneers, Earn Chen and Nicolette Yip of The Salvages, reflect on the culture and the lessons they've learned along the way.
Their cred: Earn Chen (EC) is the godfather of street wear here, opening the cutting-edge multi-label stores Ambush and Surrender in 1999 and 2003 respectively. Nicolette Yip (NY) is his partner who with him founded the eight-year-old street wear label The Salvages that’s stocked at the likes of Dover Street Market and LN-CC. Oh yes, and she’s one of the most fun and in-demand DJs in town too.
Chen opened the now-defunct Surrender store (pictured here: its former Raffles Hotel location) - the boutique was famed for bringing in some of the coolest labels of the 2000s, including being the exclusive stockist in Singapore for the cult Japanese label Visvim.
NY on their creative approach: “The references I use are deeply rooted in what I’m passionate about and my personal experiences. Each piece we create tells a story that I find compelling, whether it’s a single graphic-driven item or an entire collection with a broader theme. My creative process is continuous. For instance, ideas for the Spring Summer 2025 collection were inspired while working on our Sublime collection two years ago. This upcoming collection dives further into the evolution of underground music and now incorporates influences from the intersection of technology and humanity. I’m constantly developing new concepts and designs, and whether they emerge as standalone pieces or as part of a larger narrative depends on the story I want to tell.”
NY on how they have evolved: "Our vision and capabilities have expanded significantly from just tees to also ready-to-wear, shoes and tech activewear. This evolution has provided the opportunity to develop our design language and explore new avenues of creative expression (that now also includes) organising events and parties… On top of scratching our creative itch and curiosity, I think it’s important to show the diversity of the brand. As much as our tees continue to be popular, it’s only natural and right that our brand continually evolves for our audience by offering fresh ideas and experiences to them."
Music and subcultures have always played a key role in The Salvages' identity - pictured here, an early campaign shot in an arcade.
EC on Singapore’s early streetwear scene: “It wasn’t all about selling popular products or about the numbers back then. I, for example, was just bringing in things that my friends and I liked, sometimes to the detriment of the business. I met many customers who became friends and we built our own community over the years. Most of them have interests in music, fashion, graffiti, graphic design, skate culture, toy collecting et cetera, so when they came to the store (which was filled with these things), they felt like they fit in and it became a second home to them.”
EC on Singapore’s street wear scene now: “It’s grown so much and I find that people now are so much more open-minded in embracing creativity. And thanks to social media, local brands and grassroots movements are able to gain more visibility globally.”
EC on the state of street wear in general: "Streetwear is going through major change… Supreme, for example, was never meant to be relevant to the mainstream. I remember walking into its original boutique on Lafayette Street in New York in the ’90s and the only people inside were skaters. The brand put its own spin on traditional luxury items and that was what resonated with us. Today, luxury brands are recreating streetwear and selling it back to us. To an extent, that street wear has made it into popular culture is something to be celebrated."
READ MORE: 3 Labels Leading A New Generation Of Fashion & Streetwear Brands In Singapore
NY on the skills and qualities a designer needs in 2024: “There’s heavy emphasis now on community building and, by extension, the importance of having a clear vision and message about who you are and what your work represents. It’s always been an important part of being a designer, but in 2024, developing connections with your audience and communicating your POV plays a much more crucial role than before and shapes your work especially if you’re an independent designer… For me, my involvement with music and being a DJ has helped me to express what I love and be able to share it with a wider audience. It has added an extra dimension to the world I’m building as a designer, deepening and broadening my work, and bridging it across different communities.”
NY on how they’re staying relevant: "I often remind myself, Earn and the team that if you stay authentic, your tribe will naturally find you. The best way to stay in touch with what’s happening is to be an active part of the things you’re passionate about, and to engage with the people you love. One of the ways I like to spend my time is exploring new music and films, and having conversations with people who are passionate about what they do."
NY on what people should know before entering the industry: “Fashion is not all glamour. Running an independent label involves a lot of late nights and becomes a way of life. Also I cannot stress the importance of business management – it can make or break you.”
NY on what’s next for them: “We’ve just presented our latest collection, Where Is My Mind, inspired by the interplay between humanity and technology within the framework of modern consciousness. There are a couple of pieces in it that we’re really excited about. There’s also an upcoming collaboration with a bag company that holds sentimental value to both Earn and I.”
COORDINATION KENG YANG SHUEN PHOTOGRAPHY ANGELA GUO ART DIRECTION JONATHAN CHIA HAIR TAN ENG CHONG/KIZUKI+LIM MAKEUP ALISON TAY, USING MAKE UP FOR EVER LOCATION SPECIAL THANKS TO THE SINGAPORE EDITION
This article first appeared in the September 2024 Nostalgia Edition of FEMALE