Show Notes: Gucci’s Spring Summer 2024
New creative director Sabato De Sarno ushers in a different era at the Italian maison.
When: Sept 22
Where: Sabato De Sarno, Gucci's new creative director, had originally intended to show his debut collection (outdoors on the streets of Brera (an old neighbourhood in Milan known for its many artist studios and universities). Inclement weather conditions forced a switch back to the cavernous Gucci headquarters.
What: It was high stakes for De Sarno, a 40-year-old who had previously only been known to industry insiders: he started his career at Prada, later moving on to Dolce & Gabbana. But it would be at Valentino where he spent a sizeable chunk of his career (13 years) and rose to become the fashion director of men’s and women's ready-to-wear, before ascending to the highest post at Gucci after former creative director Alessandro Michele departed in November 2022.
The takeaway: While both Michele and De Sarno were both largely unknowns to the outside world (as compared to say, the appointment of Pharrell Williams to Louis Vuitton's menswear department), De Sarno appears to prefer a more grounded vision, as compared to the kooky eclecticism cooked up by his predecessor.
The Summer 2024 collection is titled Gucci Ancora (it means "again" in Italian) and it was De Sarno's love letter to the realities of life as it's lived by people - "It’s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy," reads the press release.
To that end, he revealed a 55-look collection that focused on elevating staples - as evidenced by the opening look of a sleek black wool coat, with a simple, low-cut white tank top and shorts worn underneath. Other looks where one could easily see De Sarno's designs worn on the streets include effortlessly slouchy blue jeans paired with a skimpy white going-out blouse that's lined with crystals, or grey hoodies contrasted with what appears to be leather mini shorts (yes, it's a very leggy collection).
The things we are eyeing: The sparkly '60s-ish ultra-mini dresses (looks 44-46); the boudoir-inspired lace-and-leather slips (looks 47-50); the shiny new takes on the classic Jackie bags (looks 10 and 11); the sultry leather pencil skirts, in particular the fringed versions (look 21) and the crystal-studded sailor collar sweater + jeans combo (look 29).
The runway looks: