Timeless Classics: The Story Behind Fashion's Most Iconic Bags

Any fashion enthusiast would know the archival‐inspired signatures of the industry’s leading brands – now‐staples that are seen and talked about so much, it’s almost hard to escape them. When they get a new and electric jolt of life on the runways though, a history lesson is in order.

THE 11.12 FROM CHANEL

ITS ORIGINS: This is Karl Lagerfeld’s 1980s‐born interpretation of the iconic 2.55 handbag (pictured below), which had been created by Gabrielle Chanel in 1955 and revolutionised the way women dressed with its adjustable shoulder strap that meant one could carry it hands‐free (it’s also still a brand staple, sold alongside the 11.12).

Lagerfeld’s take can be said to possess more chutzpah, replacing the rectangular clasp of the 2.55 with one in the shape of the double‐C logo. What didn’t change: the elegant boxy silhouette and distinctive quilted finish. Add thoughtful details such as a slot for lipstick, an interior flap to conceal the inner compartment for extra security, and a zip pocket on the underside of the main flap, and – just like that – we got ourselves another icon. 

READ MORE: A Handy Guide To The New Bags For Fall/Winter 2024

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: Expect one of the widest range of options yet, each one equal parts playful, pragmatic and perennially chic. After all, Chanel made it clear it’s the It bag of the season when it kicked off its Fall Winter 2024 show with its new campaign for the 11.12, a film starring Brad Pitt and Penelope Cruz, then sent out no fewer than 16 models with the bag to complement the romantic ready‐to‐wear inspired by Deauville and Coco Chanel herself. Cue hues such as pastels inspired by the colours of the sky in the French seaside commune; finishes such as a dark umber brown tweed with a texture reminiscent of denim; and a new XS size.

THE CABAT FROM BOTTEGA VENETA

ITS ORIGINS: Launched in 2001 by then creative director Tomas Maier, this capacious tote (pictured below) is one of the brand’s most recognisable designs. Both logo‐ and lining‐free, it is composed entirely of two layers of leather strips artisanally interwoven to form the Italian label’s signature Intreccio pattern, and has become a staple as well as a symbol of quiet luxury way before the term became a thing. 

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: Is a Cabat really a Cabat without its trademark woven finish? Present‐day creative director Matthieu Blazy says yes. To give the bag the same relaxed yet sturdy form, its body is crafted from what the brand calls “soft touch calfskin”, a leather with a waxy appearance and subtle shine. To achieve its suppleness, selected hides undergo a meticulous two‐phase tanning process, followed by dry drumming, then ironing. And taking quiet luxury to a whole new level of exclusivity, that Intreccio weave now appears on a pocket inside.

THE MISS DIOR FLAP SHOULDER BAG FROM DIOR

ITS ORIGINS: Technically not a bag, Miss Dior was the brand’s first ready‐to‐wear line (pictured below) that was introduced in 1967 – 20 years after its founding as a couture house – in response to demands for a more accessible wardrobe, and at a time when the women’s liberation movement was starting to gain momentum.

The aptly named collection was designed to cater to the next generation of customers – the daughters of the maison’s existing clients – by then artistic director Marc Bohan and his assistant Philippe Guibourge. To anchor it, the duo came up with an all‐caps, text‐based logo written in a graphic typeface with an unmistakably youthful spirit. 

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: Trust Maria Grazia Chiuri to revive said logo at a time when women’s rights are under attack again, splashing it across outerwear, mini skirts, wardrobe staples such as tees and slides, and of course, the brand’s key bag of the season. Slim with a short shoulder strap and a large enamelled logo clasp, the Miss Dior flap bag encapsulates the edge and energy of the ’60s youthquake movement, and the elegance of the maison all at once. Choose from playful finishes such as patent leather and denim.

THE ANTIGONA FROM GIVENCHY

ITS ORIGINS: Named after the courageous heroine Antigone in Greek mythology, this bag debuted in Fall Winter 2010 (pictured below) and quickly became an emblem of 2000s chic with its idiosyncratic trapezoidal silhouette.

Topped with slim handles (though one could attach to it a wide shoulder strap too), this roomy architectural design is as utilitarian as it is ladylike, explaining the celebrity fashion girlies who’ve been spotted with it – from Kate Moss to Rihanna, Hailey Bieber and Rosie Huntington‐Whiteley. Needless to say, it has gained renewed interest in recent years with the comeback of the era’s eclectic‐meets‐sexy style. 

READ MORE: The Relaxed Hobo Is The Only Bag You Need Right Now

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: A new and very demure addition to the Antigona family dubbed the Antigona Cube. The name comes from its slightly softer lines and diminutive size: Choose from mini (18 by 22 by 13cm) and nano (13.5 by 16.5 by 10.5cm), which boast on the inside a flat pocket and a card holder respectively – yeah, very mindful.

THE DI BAG FROM TOD’S

ITS ORIGINS: A classic tote that debuted in the 1990s and quickly became favoured by the late Princess Diana (pictured below) and other icons of chic from the era for its elegance, practicality and sumptuousness.

Crafted using artisanal techniques similar to those in ancient saddlery (read: you can bet it’s durable), every Di bag is composed of a series of soft calfskin panels pieced together with hand‐stitched details. 

READ MORE: Kim Se-Jeong Channels ’90s Chic With This Iconic Longchamp Bag

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: A new hobo addition to the Di family dubbed the Di Bag Swing. Using a softer grain of leather, the original’s structured shape has been deconstructed to craft a much more pliant and slouchy tote while proportions have been upsized – the Medium rings in at 42 by 27 by 27cm and the Large is ultra roomy, at 49 by 37 by 35cm. A removable shoulder strap ups the versatility of this classic‐made‐hypermodern style.

THE PEEKABOO FROM FENDI

ITS ORIGINS: Designed by Fendi matriarch Silvia Venturini Fendi and debuted in Spring Summer 2009 (pictured below), this bag can come across as having been around for much longer due to its shape, which references the top‐handle frame bags of the mid‐century period.  

At the same time, it remains in a class of its own with its idiosyncratic design: Its gusseted construction and intentionally weighted keyhole hardware make its buttery exterior drop – or “smile” – when it’s unclasped, revealing the interior (and explaining its name). Little wonder that it has remained one of the most covetable It bags around.

READ MORE: This Book Shows Why The Fendi Peekaboo Is A Designer Bag With Personality

THE FALL WINTER 2024 VERSION: The Peekaboo has been a major icon of Fendi since its launch and now, there’s a new version named the Peekaboo Soft. While aesthetically it looks the same as the OG, it’s crafted from Odalisque, a new, ultra‐soft leather with a silky smooth texture that’s the result of mineral tanning.

Other tweaks to note: a new adjustable handle so it can be worn on the shoulder more closely and comfortably; more rounded edges; and a sophisticated update on the metal frame concealed inside – previously exposed, it’s now covered in leather.

This article first appeared in the September 2024 Nostalgia Edition of FEMALE