Show Notes: Loewe Spring Summer 2024
Jonathan Anderson cuts back on gimmicks and focuses instead on experimental silhouettes.
When: Sept 29
Where: The Château of Vincennes, an estate on the fringe of Paris that was previously used as a residence for royalty from the 14th to the 16th century. Within it, the Loewe show space was decorated with large-scale bronze sculptures by the 81-year-old American art icon Lynda Benglis, who is best-known for her cerebral sculptures that appear like fluids in motion.
What: It's shaping up to be a season of wardrobe staples. Spanish house Loewe likewise focused on blazers, coats, blouses, v-neck jumpers, cardigans, jeans, trousers, mostly outfitted in an earthy colour palette of mossy greens, camel, grey, and cosy browns, essentially paring back on the scene-stealing designs of recent seasons (think the shrunken doll-esque molded leather pieces from the maison's Fall Winter 2023 collection).
The takeaway: It may be a relatively muted collection compared to previous years, but JW Anderson's signature ability to punch things up in unexpected ways is still very much there. According to the press release, he wanted to reduce "fashion to the silhouette" - and that was evident in the ultra-high waisted trousers (that reach up to the rib cages) that was sprinkled all over the Loewe Spring Summer 2024 collection that harked back to the ones first seen at the brand's men's show back in June. The Loewe quirk could also be found in the opening looks with cloak-like cardigans that came with baseball-sized buttons.
Iconic American artist Lynda Benglis translated her sculptures into fluid jewellery for Loewe.
The things we’re eyeing: The artfully twisty jewellery designed by artist Lynda Benglis (pictured above), which seems destined to be collectible pieces; the new iterations of the Loewe Squeeze shoulder hobo bag, which comes in raffia or sparkly, fruity colours for Spring Summer 2024; the outstanding tops made out of what appears to be dozens of flower brooches (looks 6 and 15); all of the ultra-high waisted trousers and the fantastically slouchy knee-length shorts that came with an oversized needle threaded through them, echoing the Surrealism that's been running rampant in Loewe's collections in recent seasons.