Show Notes: Loewe Spring Summer 2025
Jonathan Anderson goes for a more stripped back Loewe that puts an utterly modern spin on traditional motifs.
When: September 27, 2024
The venue: This season, Jonathan Anderson wiped the slate clean both figuratively and literally; he unveiled the latest collection in a white box that was devoid of any major installations (elaborate sets have come to characterised Loewe shows in recent year) save for a lone pole in the middle, with a bronze bird perched atop - a work by the eminent British artist Tracey Emin.
The takeaway: This collection marks Anderson's 10th year as Loewe's creative director, which may have explained the more stripped back set and contemplative mood, but it was not short on ideas. While the press notes didn't make explicit references to this milestone, the collection synthesised many of his trademarks, including the designer's uncanny way of putting an utterly contemporary spin on traditional motifs.
19th century hoop skirts updated for today.
Just take the stand-out silhouette of the collection: the floral dresses that came with hoops visibly embedded. Hoop skirts of course emerged in the 19th century, but unlike their fussy ancestors, Loewe's dresses appeared to be as easy to wear as say, T-shirt and jeans; they were practically bouncing as the models glided along in their sneakers, hands in pocket.
Shards of mother-of-pearl adorned this coat dress.
Elsewhere, Anderson continued to sprinkle his surrealist magic: the shimmery A-line coat dresses are not festooned with sequins but something more precious - shards of mother-of-pearl - and what appears to be an ordinary band T-shirt is actually crafted out of feathers printed with paintings of famous artists.
Possibly the most precious band T-shirt ever?
The items we’re eyeing: The aforementioned feather T-shirts, the new super squishy versions of Loewe's signature Puzzle bag, the ultra-slouchy suits, the swingy A-line mini dresses, and the elongated oxfords.
The looks: