Show Notes: Chanel Spring Summer 2025
Chanel, the grande dame of French fashion, presents a thoughtfully curated ready-to-wear collection by its in-house design team.
When: October 1, 2024
The venue: On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, the house of Chanel made a triumphant return to its iconic show venue, the Grand Palais, after a four-year hiatus. The vast space, once alive with unforgettable runway displays – like the giant rocket, supermarket, and airport – was mostly bare, except for a towering white birdcage and white foldable garden chairs set up for over 2,000 guests.
For the finale, Chanel ambassador, Elvis Presley’s granddaughter and singer Riley Keough performed a rendition of Prince's When Doves Cry from the open-air birdcage that Chanel had constructed in the center of the Grand Palais.
This striking installation paid homage to Gabrielle Chanel's words: “People have always wanted to put me in cages; cages with cushions puffed with promises, gilded cages, cages that I’ve touched while looking away. I never wanted any other than the one I would build myself.” This poignant message, taken from Mémoires de Coco by Louise de Vilmorin, was placed on each seat, serving as a powerful reminder of her indomitable spirit.
The takeaway: Liberation, a hallmark of the Chanel maison, was on full display in the Spring Summer 2025 collection. Coco Chanel's legacy of freeing women's fashion was symbolically represented in the colossal giant birdcage that dominated the runway.
Ruffled capes for daytime – why not?
Despite the absence of a creative director for the second consecutive season, the in-house design team has admirably maintained the brand's distinctive vision. For starters, the collection featured a diverse cast of models, showcasing a refreshing departure from the norm.
The looks were inspired by the Roaring Twenties and pioneering female aviators, with highlights like jackets adorned with Peter Pan collars – it'll be impeccable on guest and former FEMALE cover star Laufey, we say – flight suits, aviator jackets, and uniform-inspired garments. The pastel colour palette added a touch of whimsy and lightness to these designs.
Tweed is lighter and more fluid, while skirts feature slits for a touch of skin in the Spring Summer 2025 collection.
The theme of liberation extended to the eveningwear, with a collection of knit and crochet dresses that exuded effortless elegance. As always, Chanel's iconic handbags stole the show. A standout piece was the new quilted hobo bag, featuring side pockets and a mini half-moon shape – a stylish and functional addition to the collection.
Chanel is serious about feathers.
Embracing the aviary theme with exuberance, feathers and plumage were whimsically integrated into trimmings, collars, ruffles, and prints. While this collection is a solid offering that will resonate with loyal fans, it invites the intriguing possibility of how Chanel might reach even greater heights with the fresh vision of a new creative director.
The items we're eyeing: The capes, the jackets with Peter Pan collars, the wide-legged jeans, the platform Derby shoes, the charming striped cardigans, the crochet dress with a bow, and the knit LBD.
The looks: