5 Things We Loved About The Valentino Spring Summer 2026 Collection

In a dim room, beneath a glowing light installation titled Sora by Nonotak Studio, Alessandro Michele unveiled Valentino’s Fireflies collection. True to form, he didn’t just show clothes — he told a story. This time, it began with a letter by Pier Paolo Pasolini, narrated by none other than Pamela Anderson. In it, Pasolini reflects on desire and resistance in fascist Italy. The “firefly” becomes a quiet metaphor for hope — tiny lights flickering through darkness, not unlike today’s messy, chaotic world.

In an accompanying essay, Michele wrote: “We need to disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze… fashion, in this sense, can become a precious ally. Its task is to illuminate what loves to hide, revealing shy signs of future.” Deep, yes — but also very Michele.

Marking his first year at Valentino, Fireflies feels like a personal manifesto. It’s still romantic, still eccentric, but also his cleanest and most focused work yet — a clear glimpse into how he’s shaping the house. He dives into Valentino’s archives but can’t resist a touch of flamboyance. The show ended with models crowding the runway, gazing up at the lights — though honestly, it was the clothes that truly lit up the room.

HE’S STILL A MAXIMALIST AT HEART

Quiet luxury? Not on Michele’s watch. The man who made maximalism cool again is doubling down. Mr Valentino himself loved embroidery, lace and lavish fabrics — all things Michele knows how to play up. Think retro prints, romantic lace dresses, dramatic ruffles and heavily embroidered pieces that are equal parts fabulous and nostalgic.

BUT HE’S ALSO SHOWING HIS SOFTER SIDE

That said, not everything screamed extravagance. In between the opulence were moments of calm: clean silhouettes, crisp tailoring and even monochrome looks. For women, there were white ruffled blouses, sharp jackets and straight-cut trousers that could easily work off the runway. For men, Michele dialled back the frills — muted tones, refined shapes, and an easy confidence that felt refreshingly wearable.

A COLOUR PARTY ON THE RUNWAY

Colour lovers, rejoice. The palette was pure dopamine dressing — bold blues, sunny yellows, punchy reds, purples and greens. The styling threw colour theory out the window, and it worked. It’s chaos, but make it couture.

THE FREAKY SHOES DESERVE A SHOUT-OUT

Even in a show full of visual drama, the shoes still managed to steal focus. One standout pair took the idea of open-toed heels very literally — sliced open right through the middle and held together by clear straps, leaving toes fully exposed. Slightly freaky, completely fabulous.

AND DON’T FORGET THE ACCESSORIES

Accessories made their own statement too. Think classic handbags reimagined with gleaming V-logo hardware, soft east–west styles doubling as clutches, and tiny dumpling bags with a Michele twist.

Then there were the accessories that bordered on sculpture: oversized baroque earrings, unapologetically bold sunglasses, and pendant necklaces so commanding they almost eclipsed the clothes themselves.