Singapore's Young Provocateurs Remember The Late Vivienne Westwood
In the wake of her passing, the eternal rebel and anarchist of British fashion continues to inspire a young generation of fans.
Vivienne Westwood, the British fashion icon instrumental in shaping the punk and new wave movements of the 70s and '80s, died on Dec 29 at the age of 81. Tributes have been pouring in from fellow designers, cultural figures and fashion industry insiders – with many posting their messages on social media. Most remember the former primary school teacher-turned-fashion designer for her trailblazing ideas and for shocking the establishment as the lead agent provocateur of punk culture.
She upturned the retail landscape in the '70s through her iconic Sex boutique in London's Chelsea district, which she opened with her then-partner Malcolm McLaren. Westwood described the store as "the very embodiment of youth's assumption of immortality", thanks to its eyebrow-raising offering that span fetish gear, pornographic T-shirts and the ilk.
Vivienne Westwood, who was conferred the title of Dame in 2006, was also known as the godmother of punk for her role in defining the subculture's aesthetic. She passed away peacefully, surrounded by her family, on Dec 29 at Clapham, South London.
Then there is her namesake label. It staged its first fashion show in 1981 with the seminal Pirate Collection, which would go on to form the bedrock of the New Romanticism aesthetic. The brand – which today spans womenswear, menswear and a highly popular bridal line – is run by Westwood right up till her death with her husband and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler, whom she wed in 1992. Kronthaler, a former student of Westwood's who is 25 years her junior, stated: "We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with. Thank you darling."
Boy George described the late designer as the "undisputed Queen of British fashion", while Stella McCartney said Westwood "invented historic fashion design moments that woke us all up and shook the industry to its core." Legendary milliner and close friend Stephen Jones expressed on Instagram: “Without Vivienne (there would be) no Rei (Kawakubo), John (Galliano), Lee (Alexander McQueen) and a hundred others.”
Indeed, Westwood was a pioneer in the field for her use of unconventional materials and unconventional silhouettes that included sweaters knitted with exposed holes, slashed T-shirts and deconstructed tailoring. The subversive nature of her work appeared in designs that often incorporated political and social messages. Activism was something intrinsic to Westwood: Besides backing the Just Stop Oil movement and fiercely advocating for action to tackle the climate crisis, the designer was also a vocal proponent for the release of WikiLeaks' Julian Assange.
In recent years, Westwood’s work – namely the iconic orb necklaces and the Victorian-inflected corsets with all-over prints of Renaissance paintings – has regained prominence among fashionable youths who are acquainted with her call for smashing the status quo. Perhaps this line from her 2016 memoir sums up how she continued to play the role of the eternal rebel, right to the very end: “What I am doing now, it still is punk. It’s still about shouting about injustice and making people think, even if it’s uncomfortable. I’ll always be punk in that sense.”
Below, young admirers of Westwood pay tribute.
“I've always looked up to Vivienne Westwood; her contribution towards the punk scene during the Seditionaries era (a Grailed-worthy line produced when Westwood was running the Sex boutique) is a great factor of inspiration for me in terms of self-expression and attitude. She has shaped my ideals of non-conformity and gave me a sense of pride towards being more individualistic.”
“Vivienne Westwood taught me how to be punk – and that to truly embody the punk attitude, it's not always about wearing all black, leather jackets and spikes. Rather, it’s about not caring about what other people think and not letting other people’s opinions affect the happiness that you feel from doing whatever you want. [She also inspired me] to fight for minorities' rights, to fight for the underdogs, and to fight for the people who don’t belong – because all of us are people who don’t belong.
Being able to adopt this mindset and mentality really made life so much more enjoyable and so much more fun. And I think she really imbued that way of thinking into her collections. While I may be really really sad that she had, unfortunately, passed away, I’m very glad to have lived in a time when I got to see her work and be inspired by her. So, thank you, Vivienne Westwood, you have touched my life in many ways. You’ve helped me through countless journeys in my life and your [spirit and energy] will be a part of the styling work that I do.“
“From Seditionaries to her climate change activism, Vivienne Westwood has influenced so many designers, creatives and individuals in our industry. We’ve lost a pioneering and rebellious spirit who constantly challenged societal expectations in her work and activism. Vivienne Westwood ignited my passion and love for fashion and will always remain an inspiration and icon to me.”
“To Dame Vivienne Westwood, thank you for shaping the fashion landscape to become what it is today and allowing us to view the world through your lens. Punk will never be the same. You will live on as an icon forever.”
“Vivienne Westwood's punk tendencies were influential in every way. She opened the doors for contemporary designers to explore the subversive in the mainstream.”
“To Vivienne Westwood, the queen of punk and eternal archetype of what it means to be a creator, you have introduced to me the beautiful subculture and attitude of punk. Your authenticity, spirit and ideas have influenced the way I view fashion. Thank you for your magic and your legacy will forever live on!”