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valentino ss26 show — Valentino Spring Summer 2026. Credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight

By Carlos Keng, 23 Sep 2025

Even if you live under a rock, you’ll probably have heard how the upcoming Spring Summer 2026 fashion week is the most anticipated season in recent years, with many of the industry’s biggest brands (no less than 10) about to take on new creative directions (presumably); for example, one could say Chanel will arguably see its first true break away from Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure (Virginie Viard was after all his right-hand woman for over three decades) with Matthieu Blazy’s long-awaited debut for the house.

It’s also a new era for other heavyweights like Dior with Jonathan Anderson’s first womenswear collection for the French maison; rule-breaker Demna will be taking over Gucci (with a presentation on September 23 - the first runway show will only take place next February); Louise Trotter, formerly of Carven and Lacoste, seems likely to bring a pared back, elegant vision to Bottega Veneta; Glenn Martens is set to debut his ready-to-wear at Maison Margiela after a breathtaking couture show in July; Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez has the tough task of filling Jonathan Anderson’s shoes at Loewe; and former Valentino head honcho Pierpaolo Piccioli looks set to add a more grown-up aesthetic to Balenciaga.

Elswhere, Jil Sander is now under the direction of Simone Bellotti (formerly the creative director of Bally, and though Bellotti was there for only two seasons, he brought a more edgy direction to the Swiss label), Mugler has handed the reins to Miguel Castro Freitas (straight from Sportmax), and Jean Paul Gaultier is staging a ready-to-wear comeback with Duran Lantink at the helm. Finally, get ready for a Miu Miu-fication of Versace - Miu Miu’s design director for ready-to-wear Dario Vitale succeeds Donatella Versace, and is said to be showing a more low-key presentation (as opposed to a full-fledged runway show) this season.

It’s a precipitous moment for fashion - according to Business of Fashion, the industry is facing its biggest slump since 2008’s global recession. You’ll have read all about the various factors that contributed to this - creative stagnation; eye-popping price hikes; consumers being more careful with spending, a growing distrust of “big luxury” and so on.

A change in creative directors won’t immediately solve this tangle of quandaries, many of which relates to structural issues and business management (read: it’s likely beyond the control of the creative directors), but here’s hoping it will at least inspire consumers to be excited about fashion once more.

This story will be updated regularly, and all dates and times are in Singapore time.

CHANEL (OCT 7, 2.30AM)