An Anti-Fashion Workwear Community Is Growing In Singapore
We get into the emerging scene in Singapore and the wardrobe of eight of its aficionados.
A big workwear shakeup is happening right now. No, we’re not talking about the decline of office culture and, in turn, its dress code. Instead, workwear is the industry term referring to utilitarian, heavy-duty clothes and accessories intended for those in manual labour – or fashion inspired by such attire (a 2016 GQ article gave it the dubious nickname of “construction worker style”).
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At its core: functionality, versatility and durability manifested through evergreen pieces such as chore jackets (name says it all); utility vests (ditto); blue jeans (relaxed fits only, please); newsboy caps; and safety boots. Usually, the colour palette is all neutral and military tones – think khaki, navy and olive green – because the look is not about standing out, but buckling down and getting one’s hands dirty. Forget normcore, which involves a deliberate attempt to be anti-fashion. Workwear is as real as fashion can get.
A Fashion Week attendee at the Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 show, dressed in some of workwear's must-have items.
And in Singapore, it’s finding a growing league of devotees. For one thing, it’s comfortable in our weather. Plus, aren’t we a famously pragmatic bunch? And at a time when many are relooking how they shop, its anti-trendiness makes it a value-for-money middle finger to consumerism. The secondhand stores that have popped up here in recent years have further helped to spread its credo. Many focus on casual wear and streetwear from the ’90s and right after – when workwear first entered mainstream pop culture, what with rappers donning dungarees and grunge rockers flannel.
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At the same time – with few things safe from the clutches of fashion – workwear has been co-opted into what Gen Zers call an “aesthetic”. Carhartt and Dickies – American heritage brands that started out making clothes for railroad workers and farmhands respectively – now join the ranks of some of the hype-iest streetwear labels around.
One of the most viral things on Tiktok now? Videos featuring Dickies’ 874 pants – a rugged, straight-cut style from the ’60s – that as of press time had clocked a total of 1.8 billion views. Its legion of Zoomer fans wear it with the waistband folded down like a badge of pride: Besides revealing the branding on its inside, the choice of styling is in fact an old-school way of cinching its waist in – #iykyk.
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The result is not only a vibrant community of workwear buffs, but also one that’s shifting it away from its roots as an exclusively boys club. And, while early adopters of the look tend to be purists (wear it head-to-toe, and nothing from brands seen to be cashing in on the style), the new patrons of workwear are putting their own spin on it, flipped waistband notwithstanding. As Fahmy Ismail, longtime fan and founder of local workwear-inspired label Kerbside&Co, puts it: “It’s interesting when people mix things up... There are more facets to the workwear style than just putting on a chore coat and pairing it with jeans and boots.”
Ahead, some of the style's advocates in Singapore give us the lowdown on the workwear revolution.
His definition of workwear: “Workwear is an uncluttered style that focuses on functionality, comfort and durability. The aesthetic works best if you get the appropriate material and cut.”
On Singapore’s workwear scene: “I am heartened to see that the local workwear crowd is getting quite bold and I applaud its sartorial choices – go wilder, I say! There are more facets to workwear than just putting on a chore coat and pairing it with jeans and boots. Most of the time, there is a herd mentality and template when it comes to styling workwear, but it really shouldn’t be so one-dimensional.”
His thoughts on luxury designers remaking workwear: “On the one hand, I think that it is great that this classic style is being rejigged into something more contemporary. On the other hand, I get irked when I see something so utilitarian turned into something flashy for the hype crowd, with its prices getting exorbitantly high. The whole common sense that workwear is founded on goes out the window. I understand that there’s a huge market for this, but that’s just not for me.”
What first attracted her to workwear: “I was introduced to it in 2017 when I came across (local workwear label) Chota House’s store at The Cathay. I loved the quality of its clothes, how well-crafted they are, and their interesting details. The pieces look sophisticated yet they’re not too formal and I like that. From there, I went about my own discovery and interpretation of workwear.”
How she incorporates workwear into her lifestyle: “As an art student (she graduated recently), I did a lot of painting, sculpting and carving, and spent a considerable amount of time in the studio. What I wore had to be breathable, the fit must allow me to move about freely, and I needed lots of pockets! I would mix workwear garments with non-workwear essentials – a tank top paired with heavy-duty pants and boots, or a quilted vest with flared pants. There were times when I would be in a boiler suit all day and, for dressier occasions, a button-down with a workwear jacket.”
Her workwear haunts: “Chota is my favourite spot, but Uniqlo and Muji are alternatives for those a little more conservative. And there’s lots of affordable workwear at thrift stores… Function matters, and everyone should be able to access it.”
Erliana on what first attracted them to workwear: “We love the consistency that comes with workwear and how it transcends trends. We also love how its ruggedness allows one to move and work freely, and the more you wear the garments, the more aesthetically pleasing they become.”
On Singapore’s workwear scene: “People here don’t accessorise enough. There are so many ways you can change up a look: A vintage bandana adds personality, for example, and you can always opt for a chambray shirt, instead of a plain T-shirt, and jeans. Add metal cuffs or necklaces from (legendary Japanese silversmith) Goro’s, or a mechanic’s hat. People also tend to think that workwear equates to boots, but we think that a nice pair of brown loafers is better.”
Their workwear essentials: “A worn-in pair of jeans or baker pants (a high-waisted style with a straight leg originally designed as part of army uniforms), a military-style shirt or jacket, and Converse high-top sneakers.”
What first attracted him to workwear: “My friends and I used to hang out at Tuckshop & Sundry Supplies, a retail and workshop space opened by the gentlemen behind the local leather-crafting company Obbi Good Label (which retails some of the most authentic workwear in Singapore). My time spent there was always educational. I learnt from talking to the staff and its eccentric customers, all of whom were very put together, and well versed in everything from denim weaves and clothing construction to even leather tanning processes… That’s how I caught onto the culture… I was first drawn more towards the community than the aesthetic per se.”
His workwear haunts: “I still purchase items from Obbi Good Label from time to time but, if you’re looking to dive deep into workwear, your best bet would be the Koenji district in Tokyo, or Thailand.”
What first attracted her to workwear: “I only learnt about workwear and its culture when a colleague introduced the label Workware Hong Kong to me, and after he briefly explained its history, I was sold. I love workwear’s earthy colour palette and rugged, gritty nature. It’s stylish yet practical, and it’s real – for everyone and anyone, and for everyday people.”
How she incorporates workwear into her lifestyle: “My work is pretty physically intensive so I love wearing my gurkha pants paired with a plain T-shirt or cropped top for maximum comfort. It’s pretty much my work uniform.”
On Singapore’s workwear scene: “It’s getting more popular because of more thrift stores such as Stakeout and Woofie popping up both physically and online. And I think many local brands such as Graye and Beyond The Vines have started to incorporate elements of workwear into their designs, tweaking them for a more contemporary take.”
On how long he’s been into workwear: “Since my teenage years (Chang is 45 years old). Workwear was useful when I was dirt biking as a kid. For example, a worker vest that I used to wear had netted details that provided great ventilation when doing sports in the hot weather. It also had multiple pockets, which kept my hands free for doing stunts, and reflective details that offered an element of safety for night rides. Now as an adult, I still wear workwear as it remains completely functional for my lifestyle – from travelling and hiking to working at my store.”
On what’s quintessential to workwear: “The garments have to be durable and withstand real work. In order to achieve that, the construction and materials used are very important… A lot of brands are doing the look without taking into consideration quality and functionality, and using cheaper materials that are neither sturdy nor fall comfortably when worn. That’s effectively watering down the essence of workwear.”
His style icon: “Steve McQueen. I grew up watching his movies, and his on- and off-screen styles were both impeccable.”
What first attracted her to workwear: “I like that it’s a minimalist look with functional details. It’s gender-neutral, modest and timeless.”
How she incorporates workwear into her lifestyle: “Workwear was originally designed loosely to offer comfort while doing manual labour and that’s one of the main reasons it’s been a big part of my wardrobe – my job often sees me active on drum sets. Footwear comfort is also key so I usually complete my outfit with a pair of sneakers, or boots if I’m feeling extra vain.”
Her workwear essentials: “A white T-shirt or chambray shirt, overalls, a chore jacket, and boots or low-cut sneakers.”
Her workwear haunts: “The Attic Lifestyle Store, Kerbside&Co and Rugged Gentlemen Shoppe.”
This article is adapted from a story in the Oct 2022 Reality Edition of FEMALE