Your Favourite Chanel J12 Watch Now Comes In Matte Blue

Here's a quick refresher on this Y2K icon: few watches have managed to redefine an entire category, but Chanel’s J12 watch did just that when it launched in 2000 as the one of the first watches to spotlight high-tech ceramic as a serious material in watchmaking.

Before the J12's birth, ceramic mostly appeared as accents rather than the main structure of a timepiece, and Chanel's version, a sleek, lightweight material that maintains its colour over time, is said to be almost as hard as diamonds (read: it's super durable and scratch-resistant).

Beyond material innovation, the J12 also challenged the aesthetic norms of its time. At a moment when steel and gold dominated luxury watches, the brand introduced an minimalist, gender-neutral design in deep black ceramic, making it look and feel effortlessly contemporary. The white edition followed in 2003, cementing the J12’s status as a fashion-forward yet serious timepiece.

Fast-forward 25 years, and the brand is marking this big milestone with the new J12 Bleu, the latest addition to the J12 family. For the first time ever, the J12 is dressed in blue matte ceramic — it took Chanel's watchmaking division five years to perfect this custom shade that shifts between deep navy and near-black, subtly changing with the light.

“I dreamt of giving a colour to black, of illuminating it with blue. The final choice of this particular blue was like an epiphany” says Arnaud Chastaingt, Chanel's Watchmaking Creative Director. “I wanted a blue that has a rigorous elegance, a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue”.

The J12 Bleu collection, which will be showcased at this week's Watches & Wonders convention, features nine new models, including versions set with baguette-cut blue sapphires for an extra dose of stealth luxury. And under the hood? The Caliber 12.1 (38mm) and Caliber 12.2 (33mm) movements, engineered at the Swiss Kenissi Manufacture, which Chanel also co-owns. If you ask us, the J12 Bleu is a watch that’s equally at home on the wrist of a collector or anyone who just appreciates damn good design.

Here, a closer look at the nine models:

J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1 38mm (right), $37,000, and J12 Bleu Caliber 12.2 33mm (left), $35,550

The J12 Bleu features a matte blue ceramic case paired with baguette-cut sapphire indicators, combining refined aesthetics with technical precision. It is powered by the Caliber 12.1 movement for the 38mm model and the Caliber 12.2 for the 33mm, both produced by Swiss movement specialist Kenissi Manufacture, which is co-owned by Chanel.

J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1 38mm (blackened bezel), $15,950

This design comes with a matte blue ceramic case, blackened bezel, and glossy varnished indicators. A baguette motif on the ceramic bezel adds a sharp, architectural edge. Beneath the surface, the self-winding Caliber 12.1 movement delivers serious performance, with COSC-certified (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres, an independent watchdog) chronometer precision and a 70-hour power reserve.

J12 Bleu Caliber 12.2 33mm (diamond indicators), $18,000

The 33mm J12 Bleu takes a refined turn with 12 diamond indicators set against its deep matte blue ceramic. At its core, the Caliber 12.2 movement—visible through a sapphire crystal case-back—features Chanel’s signature circular oscillating mass, a hallmark of the brand’s watchmaking precision. Certified by COSC, it delivers chronometer-level accuracy with a 50-hour power reserve.

J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, price upon request

Pairing a flying tourbillon with a 65-facet solitaire diamond at its center, this watch is set against an openwork blue dial, with the movement’s rotation framed by 34 baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel, adding both depth and brilliance. Beneath the surface, the Caliber Five movement—three years in the making and built from 172 components—powers this meticulously crafted timepiece.

J12 Bleu X-Ray, price upon request

The J12 Bleu X-Ray is a a tribute to transparency, with Chanel creating a custom shade inspired by the sea and sky. Over 1600 hours of craftsmanship went into sculpting the case and bracelet from a single block of synthetic sapphire, while the white gold bezel and links are set with 196 baguette-cut blue sapphires. The Caliber 3.1 movement showcases the beauty of colorless sapphire plates and bridges, giving the illusion that the gears float in mid-air. This striking design is enhanced by a floating bridge set with 12 bright blue baguette sapphires.

J12 Bleu 28mm sapphires (left) and 42mm sapphires (right), price upon request

This Mini and Maxi duo offers two sizes: a 42mm and a 28mm. Both watches are set with baguette-cut blue sapphires on the bezel, dial, and bracelet, creating a striking contrast against the matte blue ceramic. Over 110 hours of meticulous gem-setting were required to embellish these cases, with 170 sapphires for the 42mm and 196 for the 28mm. The addition of blackened steel bezels and crowns enhances the depth of the blue ceramic. The 42mm model is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber 12.1 movement, a self-winding, chronometer-certified mechanism that comes in a black finish that's exclusive to haute horlogerie (high watch-making) pieces.

J12 Bleu 38 mm sapphires, $209,000

The J12 Bleu 38 mm Sapphires showcases 58 natural baguette-cut sapphires set on the bezel and indicators, creating a distinctive contrast with the deep blue ceramic. It's equipped with a COSC-certified Caliber 12.1 movement, helping to ensure impeccable performance.