Chanel Unveils Two Limited-Edition Versions Of Its Iconic Premiere Watch
A supermodel of a 1980s watch gets a super clever — and super hot — refresh. Together with Chanel, FEMALE introduces the Premiere Cuff watch and the Premiere Sautoir‐Belt watch.
With its one‐of‐a‐kind octagonal case, black lacquered dial and supple chain bracelet interlaced with leather, the Premiere watch from Chanel is a true icon of glamour and style.
It emerged in 1987 and defied horology conventions – a fashion accessory and piece of jewellery as much as it is a timepiece that offers endless styling possibilities. And, more than 30 years on, it remains one of the most recognisable and in‐demand designs around, leading to a reissue dubbed the Premiere Edition Originale last year.
Before the Premiere — Chanel’s first timepiece — women’s watches were mostly scaled-down versions of men’s watches. However, Chanel’s late artistic director Jacques Helleu shattered this norm by making the Premiere an unapologetically feminine design meant to offer freedom of wear – an ethos that has guided the maison since its inception in 1910.
The Premiere of the 1980s was celebrated for its simplicity and chic, featuring clever nods to Chanel’s quintessential house codes. Besides its octagonal case that’s modelled after the stopper of the Chanel N°5 perfume bottle, its lacquered dial was inky black – a colour favoured by Coco Chanel – and kept plain (read: no indices or displays save for the second and hour hands) for understated elegance.
Another distinctive feature: the yellow gold-coated steel bracelet interlaced with leather that paid homage to the chain strap of iconic Chanel bags such as the 11.12. Marking a departure from steel bracelet watches of the time, which tended to be masculine and sporty, this allowed one to wear the Premiere loose like a real bracelet, cementing it as much as a fashion statement as it is a timepiece.
On ear: Coco Crush 18K white and yellow gold earrings with diamonds (sold as an asymmetrical pair comprising a single white gold ear cuff – worn here on the lobe – and a triple‐stacked ear cuff in white and yellow gold, two of which are worn here). On arm, from top: Coco Crush mini 18K yellow gold bracelet; Premiere Cuff yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial; Coco Crush mini 18K white gold bracelet with diamonds, and matching plain beige gold bracelet; Premiere Edition Originale 18K yellow gold watch with leather and lacquered dial; and Coco Crush mini 18K yellow and beige gold bracelets, Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Swimsuit and pumps, Chanel
Premiere Cuff yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial, and Premiere Edition Originale 18K yellow gold watch with leather and lacquered dial (worn stacked on each arm), ChanelWatches & Fine Jewellery. All clothes and other accessories, Chanel
Coco Crush 18K beige gold single ear cuff (top); Coco Crush 18K white gold earring with diamonds (on lobe, sold as part of an asymmetrical pair that includes a triple‐stacked ear cuff in white and yellow gold); Premiere Sautoir‐Belt yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial (worn looped around neck); Coco Crush large 18K beige gold ring (on base of right middle finger), and matching mini beige gold ring with diamonds (around knuckle of right middle finger), mini white gold ring with diamonds (around knuckle of left index finger) and large beige gold ring with diamonds (on base of left index finger); and Premiere Cuff yellow gold‐coated steel watches with leather and lacquered dials (on both wrists), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Top and sunglasses, Chanel
So iconic and enduring is the Premiere that Chanel reissued the original design in 2022 in conjunction with the watch’s 35th anniversary. Christened the Premiere Original Edition, it’s the OG Premiere made better with subtle updates such as enhancements to the clasp and gold plating, now in a more subdued shade.
Premiere Sautoir‐Belt yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial (worn as backdrop necklace); Premiere Cuff yellow gold‐coated steel watches with leather and lacquered dials (on both wrists); and Coco Crush large 18K beige gold ring (on right middle finger), and matching ring with diamonds (on left middle finger), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Halterneck swimsuit, Chanel
Coco Crush 18K white and yellow gold earrings with diamonds (sold as an asymmetrical pair comprising a single white gold ear cuff and a triple‐stacked ear cuff in white and yellow gold, worn here on lobe and helix of each ear respectively), and Premiere Sautoir‐Belt yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial (worn as lariat‐style choker necklace), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Bandeau swim top, Chanel
This month, the maison pushes the Premiere’s innovativeness with two limited-edition additions. The Premiere Cuff features an octagonal face resting on a wide, sturdy chain-link cuff, also interlaced with leather. Whether worn solo, stacked, or on each wrist, its look is undeniably edgy.
And true to the Premiere’s spirit of freedom and audacity, the Premiere Sautoir-Belt sports a leather-laced chain-link strap extended long enough to wrap around the waist. The watch case dangles from one end, accompanied by a sophisticated leather tassel reminiscent of a vintage charm or pendant, while two discreet metal rings allow for adjustable length, enabling it to be creatively worn as a necklace.
Coco Crush large 18K beige gold ring (on right thumb), and matching mini bracelets in (from left) 18K white gold with diamonds, 18K yellow gold, 18K beige gold, 18K yellow gold, and 18K beige gold; Coco Crush large 18K beige gold ring with diamonds (on left thumb); Premiere Edition Originale 18K yellow gold watch with leather and lacquered dial; and Premiere Sautoir‐Belt yellow gold‐coated steel watch with leather and lacquered dial (worn as belt), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Bikini set, Chanel
Premiere Edition Originale 18K yellow gold watches with leather and lacquered dials (three worn stacked on left arm), and Premiere Sautoir‐Belt yellow gold‐coated steel watches with leather and lacquered dials (two connected and looped around waist as a belt), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. All clothes and other accessories, Chanel
Premiere Edition Originale 18K yellow gold watches with black leather and lacquered dials (worn with dial facing up on right arm, and with clasp facing up on left arm), Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery. Jeans and choker, Chanel
Watch or fashion accessory? Belt or necklace? One or two (or more)? Whatever the iteration, the Premiere offers its wearer play and plenty of choices. Now that’s modernity – both in body and soul.
PRODUCTION NOELLE LOH PHOTOGRAPHY STEFAN KHOO VIDEOGRAPHY ANGELA GUO STYLING DAMIAN HUANG ILLUSTRATION JAEYYELLE PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT ALIF STYLING ASSISTANT DANESSA TONG VIDEO EDITING PHYLLICIA WANG HAIR TAN ENG CHONG/KIZUKI+LIM MAKEUP KEITH BRYANT LEE, USING CHANEL BEAUTY MODEL NICOLE LIEW/BASIC MODELS
This article first appeared in the September 2024 Nostalgia Edition of FEMALE