A New Generation Of Tubogas Jewellery Takes Shape At Bulgari
The latest tubogas collection offers 16 new designs to choose from.
Let's be honest: the tubogas technique – that clever way of coiling precious metal into flexible, hollow bands, inspired by gas pipes from the 1920s – has been a playground for many jewelers. But it was the Roman powerhouse, Bvlgari, that truly claimed it.
When the brand first unveiled tubogas designs in 1948, it wasn’t just a stylistic choice – it was a brilliant workaround for the raw material shortages caused by World War II. Out went diamond-laden platinum, and in came the warm embrace of yellow gold. Constraints? Perhaps. But also a catalyst for creativity.
The stack-worthy bracelet designs include (from top): a plain gold version, one with three-dimensional stud embellishments, and a playful tricoloured version.
The '40s were a game-changer, giving birth to Bvlgari's first icon: Serpenti. The inaugural Serpenti bracelet-watch, launched in 1948, paired the spiraled tubogas band with a sleek geometric dial. And the rest, as they say, is history. By the '70s and '80s, Bvlgari had fully embraced tubogas, weaving it into other iconic designs like Monete, Serpenti, Parentesi, and Bvlgari Bvlgari. Now, in its 77th year, the brand gives the technique a fresh twist, proving once again that some classics only get better with time.
This haute jewellery design featuring the latest tubogas bracelet is reminiscent of Bvlgari's highly sought-after Stars and Stripes collection from 1975.
The latest tubogas collection introduces 16 new references, from everyday essentials to bold statement pieces. The bracelets, designed for stacking, come in various styles, including a classic 18K gold version and a mixed-metal iteration. One design even adds pyramidal diamond studs, giving it a subtle punk edge while keeping the elegance Bvlgari is known for.
The ends of the tubogas bracelet on the right are adorned with the Parentesi motif – a geometric design inspired by Roman pavements – that Bvlgari used in the '70s and '80s.
Bvlgari also uses this collection to revisit the versatility of tubogas, reimagining iconic design elements as it did in the '70s and '80s. Standout pieces include a bracelet featuring the signature Parentesi motif – a geometric design inspired by Roman pavements, nodding to the house’s historic tubogas creations. Another piece taps into the Monete motif, inspired by Roman coins, connecting Bvlgari’s contemporary creations to its roots in the ancient city.
The collection also includes show-stopping pieces that highlight Bvlgari’s mastery of haute jewellery. An exquisite necklace, for example, bursts with colour through vibrant tanzanite, rubellite, and green tourmaline. The tubogas mesh is subtly reimagined here to create bold volume, while pave diamonds add the brand’s signature touch of inimitable glamour.
The latest iteration of the coil tubogas watch features a trio of tubogas bands.
Perhaps the most fitting tribute is a timepiece that harks back to the tubogas origins of the Serpenti watch from 1948. Slim strips of yellow, white, and rose gold tubogas wrap around a three-coil watch housed in a Roman coin-inspired case. The contrasting gold hues play beautifully against a black lacquered dial with diamond hour markers, perfectly blending Bvlgari’s legacy of precision with its unmatched artistic innovation.
Scroll on for a look at the pieces.
Bvlgari Tubogas 18K yellow gold choker with diamonds, $31,400
Bvlgari Tubogas 18K yellow gold choker with tourmaline, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, price upon request
Serpenti 18K yellow gold ring with diamonds and onyx, $13,650
Serpenti 18K yellow gold bracelet with diamonds and onyx, price upon request
Bvlgari Tubogas 18K yellow gold necklace, $4,970
Bvlgari Tubogas 18K yellow, white and rose gold bracelet, $12,800
Bvlgari Tubogas 18K yellow bracelet with diamonds, $19,600
