Coveted, Carried, Canonised: What Makes These Designer Bags Iconic?
From front-row sightings to arm candy and topping resale wishlists – these 15 bags are truly iconic.
A few weeks ago, I found myself side-eyeing a woman carrying her Birkin backwards. But even from the wrong side, it was unmistakable — the rolled handles, the gentle upward taper, and the occasional glint of hardware as she swung it around, yakking on the phone. That’s the thing: the power of an iconic bag.
Jane Birkin's iconic 'Birkin' bag by Hermes goes on view during the Bags: Inside Out press view at Victoria and Albert Museum in 2020 in London, England.
Most of these bags have remained unchanged for decades, outlasting every -core trend and genuine cultural shift. And while some terminally online critics might dismiss them as “commercial” or “boring,” what’s a bag for if not schlepping your stuff around in style?
Iconic without the need for logos – Miu Miu's matelasse detailing for its Wander bag speaks for itself.
Here, meet the next-gen icons and revived legends that all share one thing: trophy status. They’re as relevant now as they’ve always been — and when you do get bored of them, just wait. They always come back around.
CLASSIC 11.12 BY CHANEL
What makes it an iconic bag: The Classic 11.12 isn’t just a bag – it’s a rite of passage, a financial asset, and a ticket to the fashion insider club all at once. A 1983 riff by Karl Lagerfeld on 1955’s 2.55, which was the first hands-free handbag, the Classic 11.12 (formerly called the Medium Flap) is instantly recognisable because of its double-C clasp and quilting. More importantly, it’s also recognisable from the back because of its “smile” compartment.
Sizes: One size
Price: This version in grained shiny calfskin & gold-tone metal is priced at $15,680.
HERBAG ZIP BY HERMES
What makes it an iconic bag: Since the ‘80s, the Herbag has been considered the “Kelly Country” but it’s now slowly creeping into the internet’s consciousness after appearing in the House’s Spring Summer 2019 show. With its sturdy canvas body, unlined leather flap, and a lengthy strap to be slung over the shoulder, plus the fact it buckles up without requiring a sidewalk intermission, the Herbag is the one you’ll see more often on the streets.
Sizes: 31, 39, Cabine 50, and Cabine 52. It’s also available in backpack and messenger versions.
Price: This version in 31 is priced at $6,000.
LADY DIOR BY DIOR
What makes it an iconic bag: Launched in 1994 by Gianfranco Ferre as the ChouChou before being renamed the Lady Dior in 1996 after Princess Diana, no other bag can boast of its perpetually stiff shape and signature rounded top handles. Of course, there’s the Cannage stitching, as recognisable as a Dior Bar jacket; and Dior charms, but another iconic feature is how its handles form the shape C and D when you “open” them away from the bag.
Sizes: Mini, Small, and Medium, with the latter being the original size of the ChouChou
Price: This version in mini with black strass and Cannage satin is priced at $7,800.
RE-NYLON 1978 BACKPACK BY PRADA
What makes it an iconic bag: Houses tend to like tinkering with their MVPs, but even after 47 years, Prada still presents this bag in nylon (albeit in Re-Nylon, a regenerated nylon fabric) with the emblematic Prada triangle front and centre. It’s also still got the OG details like two front pouches, a drawstring, flap, and buckle closure. And fun fact, many consider the Prada backpack the gateway for other designers to do “pretty-ugly” bags.
Sizes: Small, Medium, and a regular size
Price: This version in small is priced at $3,250.
WANDER MATELESSE BY MIU MIU
What makes it an iconic bag: How many bags can boast recognisability without the use of colours, logos, or a monogram? Not often, which is why the matelasse detailing, so unique to Miu Miu and featured on this one, is not lost on us. An ode to the 2006 Coffer, its 2022 cousin still has its soft, squishy shape that is prime nostalgia bait – and yes, it also doesn’t need a nameplate to be identified when viewed from all angles.
Sizes: Mini, Micro-hobo, and a regular size
Price: This version in the regular size is priced at $3,900.
BAMBOO DIVA BY GUCCI
What makes it an iconic bag: When Gucci’s Bamboo bag dropped in 1947, it was called the 0633, as bags were identified by numeric codes at the time. Its curved bamboo handle, which no other luxury house was touching at the time? Pure wartime ingenuity, a fix for Italy’s leather shortage. Now, in 2025, it’s back as the Bamboo Diva, slimmed into an East-West crossbody that’s equal parts polished and nonchalant—exactly how we like to dress in the now.
Sizes: One size
Price: $7,300
BOSTON BY CELINE
What makes it an iconic bag: The Boston bag, and sometimes in monogrammed mode, has always been a house special since 1966, when founder Celine Vipiana first launched leather goods. Then came Michael Kors in the early noughties, who launched the Macadam-monogrammed Boogie, and next, Phoebe Philo with her minimalist Triptyque in 2012. Slimane’s 2019 edition is the Boston – echoing the bourgeois chic of the Vipiana era, which blended in with the ‘bad’n’boujie’ social media look in the same year.
Sizes: Mini, Small, and a regular size
Price: This version in small is priced at $2,550.
BROOKLYN SHOULDER BY COACH
What makes it an iconic bag: The Brooklyn Shoulder’s shape is a reference to a Coach bag from the ‘90s. It comes with almost no branding, like those of the ‘90s, and even its name has a ‘90s-like sound in the era when bags were given off-beat names like Sam (Kate Spade), Le Pliage (Longchamp), and Vernis (Louis Vuitton). Its rise to iconic status? That’s thanks to a perfect storm of celebrity endorsements and a price tag that doesn’t require a trust fund.
Sizes: 23, 28, and 39
Price: The version in 39 is priced at $950.
HOP BY BOTTEGA VENETA
What makes it an iconic bag: Launched in 2002, the still-sought-after intrecciato-woven Veneta was a classic hobo—a bag you had to work for, breaking in the leather by stuffing it with soup cans and hanging it on a door knob. Fast forward to 2023, and the Hop arrives as its visual twin with a clever upgrade: it’s slouchy right off the shelf. And if you know Bottega, you know that their bags only get cooler once they look worn in.
Sizes: Mini, Small, and Large
Price: This version in small is priced at $5,480.
SPEEDY SOFT 30 BY LOUIS VUITTON
What makes it an iconic bag: Dating to 1930 when it was first called the Express, the Speedy was made for women who were finally on the move – a roomy bag geared for globetrotting but still useful on home ground. Its monogram canvas and a stream of celebrity fans sealed its it-bag status (fun fact: Audrey Hepburn herself asked Louis Vuitton to shrink it into a 25) and now, for 2024, it’s been dialled down with black monogram empreinte cowhide for a lower-key flex
Sizes: One size
Price: $5,700
HUG BY FERRAGAMO
What makes it an iconic bag: Since its 2023 debut, the Hug has been more of a cult classic—which means plenty of people are sleeping on what makes it great. Think: a ’60s ladylike shape spiked with just enough Y2K-esque details like Gancini buckles to keep it from looking staid. It’s quiet luxury with a little bite. And here’s a fun fact to file away – according to former Moynat Creative Director Ramesh Nair, iconic bags usually have a “face,” just like the Hug.
Sizes: Extra Small, Small, Medium, and Large
Price: This version in Large is priced at $4,490.
MAMA BAGUETTE BY FENDI
What makes it an iconic bag: Yes, it’s not just a bag, it’s the Baguette, which debuted in 1997 and kicked off the it-bag modern phenomenon of waitlists, knockoffs, and cultural obsession. Its 2025 version isn’t a half-baked sequel – it comes with a drawstring closure to ensure your belongings are fully secure and, just like that, its big bloat courtesy of soft, nappa leather makes it look more playful: less “I stole this from my mum” and more “gee thanks, just bought it”.
Sizes: Nano, Small, and Medium
Price: This version in medium is priced at $4,500.
NIKI BY SAINT LAURENT
What makes it an iconic bag: Kate Moss is truly the boss when it comes to popularising a bag, given her touch with the Mulberry Bayswater and the Balenciaga Le City. In 2018, her move was starring in a campaign featuring the Niki and putting it on the map. But it wasn’t just Moss’s magic at work. The bag played up the revived Cassandre logo, rode the wave of indie sleaze 2.0, and was easygoing but elegant in a ‘Look Like a French Girl’ way.
Sizes: Baby, Mini, Small, Medium, Large, and Oversized
Price: This version in mini is priced at $2,780.
LE CITY TRAVEL BY BALENCIAGA
What makes it an iconic bag: Considered one of the first bags involving influencer marketing (it nearly didn’t hit shelves because of its too-slouchy shape and hardware), the 2001 Le City’s revival in 2019 made it relevant again, though most people forgot what made it iconic. Back then, it was lugged around comically oversized, Olsen twin-style. Which is exactly why this whopping version from the men’s section feels right – ready to be thrashed, dragged, and scuffed just like how it was done in the noughties.
Sizes: Mini, Small, Medium, Large, and a Travel version
Price: This version in Travel is priced at $4,950.
FEATHERLIGHT PUZZLE BY LOEWE
What makes it an iconic bag: The Puzzle, launched in 2014, was Loewe’s first new bag since the 1980s. In a season of bohemian bucket bags, embellished party clutches, and stiff schoolgirl satchels, the Puzzle stood out for its geometric origami-like shape. That was the point – it could be folded flat like a t-shirt. And it was artisanal but never too precious, thanks to buttery soft, scratch-resistant leather. For 2025, it’s all-nappa, inside and out, featherlight but still impossible to mistake.
Sizes: One size
Price: $6,250