It's Gonna Be A Good Year For Tudor Black Bay Fans
Gold and silver are used for the first time in the brand’s divers’ watches, while the chronograph gets a makeover.
By Dylan Tan,
It has been almost a decade since Tudor decided to revisit its archives and reissue the Heritage Black Bay.
Since then, it has won a revival prize at the watchmaking Oscars, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie in 2013, and numerous variations – different dial colours, sizes, complications, you name it – have been rolled out over the years.
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Lest anyone accuses Tudor of a Black Bay overkill, the reality is the collection remains extremely popular with the young and old. For the latter, the nostalgia is a big draw and a chance to own a piece of history. As for millennials who are just starting to explore the world of luxury watches, Tudor is attractive because of its heritage and link to Rolex.
Not only that, its pricing hits the sweet spot – a base model Black Bay 32 retails for under four grand.
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The collection’s popularity has resulted in a shortage of some models like last year’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue. Want one? You will need to get on the waitlist then.
Expect to have to do the same also if you are lusting over some of the Black Bay novelties for 2021.
Tudor has further expanded the collection with the introduction of even more new models. Elsewhere in this year’s line-up, the Black Bay 41, 36 and 32 models all get a new silver dial. It looks uber sporty in the day but also dressy enough for formal occasions in the evening.
Ahead, we spotlight three models that have had watch fans talking.
First up is the Black Bay Chrono to mark the golden anniversary of the Oysterdate, the first chronograph launched by the brand in 1970. On the surface, the watch is a dead ringer for the Steel and Gold version from a few years ago but there is more than meets the eye.
The case has been tweaked and is now thinner at 14.4mm; and the crystal has been reworked so the COSC-certified manufacture chronograph calibre MT5813 – with 70 hours power reserve – sits nicely in the watch.
It is offered in two dial options – black or white – with contrasting sub-dials to give it the panda look which tips a hat to vintage racing watches like the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona. At 41mm, it wears large and rightfully so to make a statement on the wrist.
Also new this year is the Black Bay Fifty Eight in 925 Silver. The composition of the alloy is top secret but Tudor says it is stable enough not to tarnish. The use of silver for a divers’ watch is a first for the brand and so is showing off the piece’s COSC-certified manufacture calibre MT5400 – also with 70 hours power reserve – through an exhibition case back. To complement the Black Bay Fifty Eight 925’s satin-finished matte silver case, the watch features a frosted taupe (warm grey) dial and bezel.
It’s not everyday that you find a timepiece executed in silver so kudos to the brand for experimenting with a new material.
The 39mm size of the Black Bay Fifty Eight (named after the year 1958 when Tudor released its first divers’ watch, the Big Crown, ref 7924) is looking to be quite a hit with those who have slimmer wrists or don’t want to wear an oversized watch because another version in gold has also been introduced this year.
It marks the first time Tudor is using the precious metal for a diver and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K – in 18K yellow gold – features an open case back just like the 925 Silver.
The use of green for the dial and bezel also works nicely with the satin-finished matte gold case to give the watch a vintage aesthetic instead of making you look like a bling-loving rapper.
A version of this article first appeared in The Business Times