This Modern New Japanese Tea Atelier In Singapore Has Matcha, Traditional Brews And Desserts
Koko Kawane uses matcha from a farm in Shizuoka that’s helmed by a 13th-generation owner.
The ever-growing matcha craze has since taken on plenty of forms, from unending dessert renditions to funky newfangled matcha latte flavours. But Singapore’s newest matcha spot, Koko Kawane, isn’t one for all the trendy bells and whistles. Instead, this modern tea atelier goes back to basics, relying on traditional brewing techniques and high-quality tea leaves harvested from the mountains of Japan.
What’s in a name? “Kawane” refers to a lesser-known tea region in Shizuoka that’s full of hot springs and mineral-rich soil, and that’s where Koko Kawane’s tea leaves come from. Specifically, they’re grown on the family-run Kawane Matcha plantation, now helmed by 13th-generation owner Kazuteru Ohashi. After years of supplying his harvests to other parts of Japan, he now brings his quality-driven tea to Singapore, in a corner of The Star Vista.
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While the mall in the west of Singapore is free of air-con, with numerous open-air F&B outlets, you’ll be glad to know that Koko Kawane is an enclosed, fully air-conditioned establishment – already a plus point for us. The interiors are simple and zen with plenty of light wooden fixtures, just like how a traditional Japanese teahouse should be. There are about 14 seats – half by the window where you can people-watch, and half by the counter, where the matcha baristas whisk up your bevvies by hand.
Koko Kawane’s fukamushi sencha (left), and various Japanese tea lattes (right).
You won’t find any strawberry matcha here, but the drinks at Koko Kawane easily hold their own without any fancy toppings. The most “modern” brews would be the hojicha latte ($8) and various matcha lattes ranging from $8.50 for a house blend, to $13.50 for the Soemon blend, which combines different leaf types.
For something lighter, try the unsweetened traditional teas, also brewed on the spot. There are two types of straight hojicha ($7 each) – the stem-roasted karigane and leaf-roasted kasuga – as well as deep-steamed sencha (from $5) and single-origin usucha green teas ($7). All drinks on the menu are available as both hot and iced options.
The retail counter, where you can buy matcha and hojicha powder for your own home cafe.
All the teas have distinct flavour notes, and if you can’t decide just based on menu descriptions, there’s a counter display that lets you have a sniff of the different varieties. Else, you can always ask the knowledgeable staff for recommendations according to your preferred flavour profiles.
Koko Kawane’s desserts, from front to back: Kohaku, Hisui, Kirizakura, Akane, and Midoba, ranging from $10 to $14 each.
While the tea here is traditional, the desserts are contemporary creations by Japanese pastry chef Mei Kubota of Koko Patisserie, with each one essentially a mini edible “sculpture” of sorts. Pick from five confections; Our favourite was the chocolatey, hojicha-forward Kohaku ($10) with a crunchy base, though the sakura-shaped Kirizakura ($12) mousse cake with peach compote filling would also be a good choice for hojicha-lovers who prefer something lighter, with a hint of black sesame.
One of Koko Kawane’s ochagashi set, featuring tsuyuhikari usucha and the Akane dessert.
The chef’s pick is Hisui ($14), a matcha mousse dessert with hazelnut praline crunch, strawberry jam and matcha sponge. There’s also the tea leaf-shaped Midoba ($10) with layers of almond sponge, matcha cremeux and raspberry jam; as well as the refreshing red-hued Akane ($12), where coconut mouse and mango compote are paired with matcha sponge and matcha cremeux.
We recommend getting an ochagashi set ($15) which comprises a cup of usucha and a selected pastry – it’s cheaper than ordering a la carte.
Our verdict on Koko Kawane
No diluted, weak drinks here – Koko Kawane is the real deal at reasonable prices. Its location makes it quite out of the way for those who don’t study or work in the area, but this Japanese teahouse is enough reason for us to make the journey down to its less-than-central locale. Perhaps our only gripe would be that disposable cups are used regardless of whether you’re having a seat or doing a takeaway (we’re all for sustainability, plus actual ceramic teaware would certainly add to the autenticity of the experience. However, with each cup of tea here slowly made with care and precision, it’s understandable that the cafe would want to keep other processes moving as smoothly as possible, especially given the modest size of the space. We’ll close an eye to that.
Koko Kawane is located at #01-02 The Star Vista (nearest MRT: Buona Vista), with daily opening hours of 10am to 9pm.