Industry Baby: How Motherhood Inspired These S/S '22 Collections
There's something about new life in fashion these days, with designers like Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Rejina Pyo turning out Spring/Summer 2022 collections that took motherhood as a key inspiration.
In the midst of all the va-va-voom, skin-baring sexuality that's shaping up to be Spring/Summer 2022's most important trend, a surprising thread has appeared. During the period of pandemic lockdown and shakeup, a number of female designers have become mothers!
Call it an act of hope to bring a new person into the world in such an uncertain time, but that tender sensibility of burgeoning motherhood was likely the reason that designers like Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha added new facets of femininity to their creations.
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Although these two examples have always dealt with modern visions of femininity and womanhood, there's a new grown-up (the important counterpoint: not boring!) look to the fashions they're now creating as young mothers. It's a way of addressing new phases of life, and – even if they're not strictly maternity wear – a broadening of their message and audience that's always welcome.
The Row surprised even industry insiders last week when it debuted a collection of kids wear. It's a tight, minimalist edit of styles that includes a beanie, cashmere sweats, a robe and shoes inspired by Venetian gondoliers – all in just four colours that include Klein blue, vibrant fuchsia, heather grey and burnt orange.
On the flip-side, an ultra grown-up brand like The Row also surprised the fashion world when it recently announced a line of kidswear. It's a funny turning of the tables – a designer like Molly Goddard who specialises in girly tulle frocks now tuning it for a woman in more varied phases of life, and a brand known for its very sober, adult, stealth-wealth aesthetic creating cheery clothes for children.
Either way, it seems there's something about childhood in the air. Or motherhood too, if American rapper Lil Nas X's baby bump promotional stunt in September is anything to go by. Fashion-wise, though, take it from Mary-Kate Olsen, who told W magazine that kids "bring out a sense of playfulness" – something we perhaps could all do with a dose of.
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Here, a look at some collections and looks from the Spring/Summer 2022 runways and how they took their inspiration from motherhood and children.
Molly Goddard's fashion has always been inspired by children's and babies' clothes. Since her graduate collection at Central Saint Martins college, she's toyed with expanded volumes of smocked tulle with a charming naif look. This season, with a recent new-born to stimulate that source of inspiration once more, Goddard continued to expand her repertoire. Although her tulle pieces are fashion favourites for events like weddings and showers, there's a lot more everyday pieces to be found now that introduce a touch of innocent, youthful joy.
The Irish designer Simone Rocha recently welcomed her second daughter. The processions and rituals of newborns thus inspired this angelic-gothic cross of a collection. There were details that echoed christening and communion ceremonies, as well as bustier details and nightgowns to evoke the maternal acts of taking care of a baby. This being Simone Rocha, however, the romanticism was darkly crossed with what she described to Sarah Mower as a "funny, deranged negligee night-time sort of spooky, deranged insomnia". Beautiful as motherhood is, Rocha seemed happy exploring its darker (and arguably more fascinating) polarities with a sense of wit and elegance.
Zoe Latta, one half of buzzy New York label Eckhaus Latta, became a first-time mother this year. That might've been the impetus for their excellent, brisk collection that addressed how one can feel about their body today. Yes, the overt zeitgeist of sexy, revealing clothes was there. But the more enriching concept was straightforward, wearable clothing that deals in sexuality without obscenity. These designs had a real ease to them, and featured a lot of snap closures, wispy sheer fabrics, and plush-looking knits that struck a smart balance.
By the time Rejina Pyo showed her Spring collection in London, she was already heavily pregnant with a daughter on the way. While the collection itself took broad inspiration from sports and diving (hence the choice to show at the London Aquatics Centre), there were printed details like a cartoon mouse, director's chair and ducks that hinted at childlike visual iconography. Also notable: more relaxed and fluid silhouettes that are very summer-apropos. Pyo was quoted saying that this new dimension of femininity was a way of embracing gentleness, perhaps a subconscious response to having a new daughter.