Fine Jewellery 101: A Lesson On Iconic Collections For Gen Z
Your ultimate guide to building a fine jewellery collection starts here – answers to all your FAQs included.
Ready to level up your jewellery game? Say goodbye to sterling silver studs and hello to bougie gold. But with so many options – white gold, yellow gold, pave, articulated – where do you even start? Not vibing with yellow gold? No worries, there's a brand that’s got your back. As older Gen Zers step into the workforce, it’s time to start curating your fine jewellery collection. Here are the basics you need to know, plus the brands you should check out as you step up your accessory game.
So, What’s “Fine Jewellery” All About?
It’s all about quality, not trends. Unlike sterling silver or vermeil, which are common in fashion jewellery, fine jewellery is crafted from precious metals. The industry standard is 18K gold – 75% gold and 25% alloyed metals – giving it a richer, deeper yellow tone compared to 14K. More gold means more value, so 18K pieces come with a higher price tag and superior quality.
Fine jewellery, such as the Chanel N°5 collection, is defined by the use of precious metals like 18K gold and gemstones like diamonds.
Chanel made waves in 2016 with the introduction of Beige Gold as part of their Coco Crush collection. This soft, unique shade offers a sophisticated alternative to traditional gold.
And let’s not forget platinum – it’s even rarer and brings a whole new level of luxury. Luxury houses rely on these precious metals to create their iconic pieces.
What’s the Deal with Rose Gold and Pink Gold?
You’ve probably seen these two popping up all over the jewellery scene, but there’s actually a small difference. Rose gold is made from a blend of gold, copper, and a dash of silver. The more copper, the redder the hue, giving it that signature rosy glow.
Pink gold, on the other hand, is like rose gold's bolder cousin. It has even more copper, giving it a softer, more pinkish tint compared to the slightly redder rose gold.
So, they’re both gold with a reddish vibe, but pink gold has that extra punch of copper for a more vibrant pink.
A close-up of the Cartier Love bracelet highlights its minimalist design, with smooth, polished gold bands and the signature screw motif. Fastened with a small screwdriver, it symbolises eternal attachment by locking the bracelet into place.
Karat vs. Carat – What’s the Difference?
Karat and carat are terms that often get mixed up, but they actually refer to different things in the jewellery world.
Karat (k or K) measures the purity of gold. For example, 24K is pure gold, while as explained above, 18K is 75 per cent gold and 25 per cent other metals. The higher the karat, the purer the gold – so 14K gold is about 58 per cent pure.
On the other hand, carat (ct) is all about the weight of gemstones, like diamonds. One carat equals 0.2 grams, so a one-carat diamond weighs 0.2 grams, no matter its size or shape.
Karat = gold purity, and carat = gemstone weight. Got it?
Some Cool Lines from Iconic Jewellery Houses
CHANEL: Coco Crush
Chanel’s Coco Crush collection, launched in 2015, takes the brand’s iconic quilted pattern and gives it a fresh, modern twist. With rounded edges and clean lines, it feels totally current, while the subtle quilted embossing adds a luxe, tactile texture that still screams Chanel. This collection strikes the perfect balance between classic elegance and bold edge, much like the brand's signature bags – only now in jewellery form. It’s the type of piece that feels timeless but totally on-trend, perfect for stacking and personalising. Over its 10-year run, designs have expanded from miniature rings and ear cuffs to C-O-C-O alphabet motifs and, more recently, ruby gemstones.
CHANEL: N°5
Chanel’s N°5 fine jewellery collection, released in 2021, reimagines the world’s most iconic fragrance as a jewellery line. Inspired by the perfume’s sleek bottle and the number "5," the pieces are clean, geometric, and packed with luxe materials. Diamonds and gemstones are set in platinum and gold, reflecting the perfume’s elegance but with a modern twist. The collection mixes sharp, angular shapes with the brand’s timeless feel, making the pieces versatile enough to wear every day while still delivering major statement vibes. It’s like wearing a piece of Chanel history, but reworked for today.
CARTIER: Love
The Love collection, introduced by Cartier in 1969, is famous for its iconic Love bracelet, designed by Aldo Cipullo. Featuring a minimalist design with a screw motif, it symbolises eternal attachment. Originally requiring a screwdriver to open, it became a symbol of unbreakable bonds. The design remains timeless, with the collection resonating especially with Gen Z for its subtle, symbolic luxury. Recently, a medium-sized version of the bracelet was introduced, sitting between the classic and small models.
CARTIER: Trinity
Launched in 1924 by Louis Cartier, the Trinity collection features three interlocking rings of yellow, white, and pink gold, symbolising love, friendship, and fidelity. Over time, it has expanded into bracelets, necklaces, and earrings, maintaining its minimalist elegance and symbolism. The collection has evolved through collaborations, including Chitose Abe’s 2022 minimalist reinterpretation and modular designs inspired by Japanese puzzles. Recently, Cartier marked the Trinity’s centenary with bold, architectural pieces, such as cushion-shaped rings. Now, after exploring different design directions, the collection enters a new phase of maximalism.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: Alhambra
Van Cleef & Arpels' Alhambra collection, first launched in 1968, is all about that iconic four-leaf clover, which stands for luck and prosperity. The design keeps things sleek with smooth, rounded edges and luxurious materials like gold, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and turquoise. Whether it's a pendant or stacked rings, the clover is always front and centre, mixing elegance with meaning. While the motif gets reimagined over time, the collection’s got some fun twists, like the 2023 re-release of an archival reversible ring, featuring one side in engraved gold and the other in bold blue agate. Perfect for adding a little luck to your look.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: Perlee
Van Cleef & Arpels' Perlee collection, rolled out in 2008, blends minimalism with sophistication through its signature bead-like texture. Delicate yet bold, rows of tiny gold beads create a tactile design that feels both luxurious and wearable. The collection includes rings, bracelets, earrings, and necklaces, all perfect for stacking or wearing solo. Over time, it has evolved with additions like the Perlée Clover, incorporating lucky charm elements, and the Perlée Couleurs, which introduce vibrant gemstones. Among the recent iterations that caught our eye are the crisscross Duo rings – a fun, fresh take on knots.
BVLGARI: Serpenti
Bvlgari's Serpenti collection, released in the 1940s, takes inspiration from the snake, symbolising power and transformation. Known for its flexible, coil-like structures, the collection has evolved with bold gemstone combinations, including diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, and expanded into watches featuring snake-head motifs. For the Year of the Snake in 2025, Bvlgari introduces the Serpenti Infinito concept, symbolising infinity through the serpent’s transformative power. The collection includes 13 new pieces across jewellery, watches, and leather goods that intertwine the Serpenti with nature. Highlights include the minimalist and abstract Serpenti Viper in rose, yellow, and white gold with diamonds, new jewellery sets featuring sleek necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings, and figurative Serpenti rings in rose gold with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. For watches, the Serpenti Seduttori blends stainless steel with a diamond-set bezel, while the Serpenti Tubogas coils elegantly in rose gold, stainless steel, and pave diamonds.
BVLGARI: B.Zero1
The Bvlgari B.Zero1 collection, launched in 1999, takes its inspiration from the iconic Colosseum in Rome, celebrating strength, individuality, and architectural grandeur. The collection’s signature spiralling design features a bold, geometric aesthetic that blends modern elegance with cool self-expression. Combining smooth, sculptural curves with structured lines, B.Zero1 has become a symbol of contemporary luxury. Over the years, the collection has evolved, incorporating materials like ceramic, rose gold, and diamonds. It has also introduced new designs, including the edgy studded B.Zero1 rings, which offer a punk-inspired twist while maintaining the collection's distinct, powerful identity.
TIFFANY & CO.: Tiffany T
Launched in 2014, Tiffany & Co.'s Tiffany T collection is inspired by the letter "T," which just happens to resemble a smiley face emoticon – a playful nod to modern life. With clean lines that echo the sleek vibes of New York City, the collection offers minimalist pieces like bracelets, rings, and necklaces that blend cool, everyday luxury with a youthful edge. Each design highlights Tiffany's expert craftsmanship, perfect for those who want refined style with a dash of fun.
TIFFANY & CO.: Tiffany HardWear
Introduced in 2017, Tiffany & Co.'s HardWear collection draws inspiration from a unisex bracelet found in the brand's 1971 archives. The collection embodies the bold, industrial spirit of New York City, featuring hardware-inspired elements like nuts, bolts, and ball bearings. Its sleek, geometric shapes and clean lines offer a modern aesthetic, making it perfect for those who want statement-making jewellery. The Tiffany HardWear collection includes a variety of items, such as bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and rings, all reflecting the brand's commitment to contemporary design.
BOUCHERON: Quatre
Debuted in 2004, Boucheron’s Quatre collection is inspired by the concept of four distinct elements coming together to create a unified design. The name "Quatre," meaning "four" in French, reflects the collection's four signature motifs, each representing a different aspect of Parisian style and heritage. The iconic Clou de Paris pattern, inspired by the cobblestones of Paris streets, evokes the city’s rich history, while smooth gold bands in various shades symbolise strength and elegance. Diamond pave, featuring closely set diamonds, adds a touch of luxury, and the Groove motif introduces simplicity and modernity. Known for its bold, geometric design, Quatre is celebrated for its stackable rings, offering versatility in colour and style combinations. The collection also includes variations like the S Motif Quatre Classique Pendant for those who appreciate understated luxury, and the Quatre Radiant Edition Bracelet Set, Ring, and Necklace, perfect for those unafraid to shine with brilliance and glamour.